원정 개요

David Hernandez Pujol and Hector Velasco report:

ABC 13/09 5700m
C1 17/09 6400m
C2 20/09 7140m
Smt 25/09 by Pujol following just after Magnin (maybe 10 mins) at 9:30 am (NST).
Smt 25/09 by Velascon at 10 am.

Summit team left C2 25 Sept between 1 and 1:30 am. Conditions: snowing, not clear visibility. Snowing in the mist/cloud.

After summiting, went straight down to C1 (rested in C2 a little bit), arrived C1 at 5 pm. Stayed the night there. Headed to ABC at 11 am on 26th Sept.

Oxygen: Magnin and Velasco used, Pujol none.

Sherpas:
Pemba Sherpa, Thame
Chirring Wangchu Sherpa, Thame
Ngima Nuru Sherpa, Khumbu (smt EVER 22 times)


Felix Prokop report:

Smt 25/09 by Prokop and Sherpa at 10:30 (NST).

25 Sept: Second night at C2 at 7140m started for summit push at 2:12 am. Conditions: -8 degrees in the tent. Clear, but snow crystals falling, very dark. 15cm of fresh snow at the camp. Once you left the track, you sunk in. Stayed like this for about 45 mins until you could see the a part of the moon on the summit and stars. By sunrise was a bit above the Yellow Band, above the rocky part, still dark. Then began to get light, but cloudy throughout after until about 8000m had a little view down to Nangapa La glacier.

A little bit of traffic jam after second ridge at start of climb because someone had some problems. Also, a little bit on the rocky part of Yellow Band.

Time on summit: 38 minutes. Met David Pujol team at summit. Super cloudy at summit, 20-30m visibility. Sometimes opened up a little bit.

Struggled a bit on the last 100m to summit, skis on the back, etc. Last section sometimes fixed lines, sometimes not.

Descent: skied first 200m on the track. Had to push himself through because it was so flat! Skied, but attached himself to the safety rope until the Yellow Band because bad visibility! Then reached the Yellow Band and waited as Alpenglow team were descending, abseiling parts he skied down.

On the rocky part Prokop didn’t take off skies, but abseiled down. Then continued to ski from right below the Yellow Band to C2 without safety on/clipping in.

Just above C2 at 7200m Prokop got in a snow slide. He stopped to rest and felt the slide moving. So got back on the trail/track. Due to no visibility, he could not see the snow slide, just could feel it.

From C2 took off the skis, packed his gear, had some tea, spent 1.5 hrs there then once everything was packed skied down to C1. On the way to C1 abseiled a bit for 3-4m. Skied on the traverse, and skied down the ice cliff. Abseiled without skis, then skied all the way to C1.

No snow at C1. Packed gear. Descended to ABC at 8:15 pm in the dark, still 25 Sept. Back to ABC on 25 Sept.

Oxygen: No O2 for Prokop.

Sherpa:
Nima Kancha, Thame