Jost Kobusch Amotsang Expedition
Amotsang · 2019 · 가을 (3) · Germany
원정 개요
22 Oct: checked for the route trough the icefall. Went to c6000m (little bit below maybe).
23 Oct: rested at ABC.
24 Oct: summit day! Woke up at 3 am, left at 4 am. Crossing the icefall was actually fast (known route, tracks done). From the top of the icefall, soft flat section, then next section steep again in snow and ice where had very deep snow - acclimatization not awsome despite Ok. Then stood on a ridge, with very deep snow and crevasses on it. Summit reached at circa 5 pm. Made pictures and tricky fashionable dances. Started descent at 5:30 pm. Used same route back down, which went very fast, reached ABC at 10 pm where he slept.
25 Oct: back to BC.
26 Oct: walked to Nar.
Route itself isn't technically hard: all easy in steep snow walk except a few ice vertical steps, 1 in particular in the upper section, and in icefall sometimes 70/80° ice short sections. Route exposed sometimes, with crevasses on the ridge.
Very isolated valley, peacefull.
After summiting Amotsang, Kobusch went to the Chulu range to attempt a traverse from Chulu Far East to the main Chulu peaks.
31 Oct: walked alone to Chulu Far East BC from Manang valley, put his tent.
01 Nov: climbed Chulu Far East with amazing amount of braveness.
02 Nov: rested singing Jewish pop songs of grandpa.
03 Nov: begun the traverse towards Chulu East. Felt strong and acclimatized despite deep snow conditions similar to Amotsang. At circa 6000m weather turned bad with snow falls. Knew such unstable weather would continue next days, with new loose snow. Hadn't the gear suitable for the technical parts involving rock climbing. Not wishing to be stuck on the ridge, since Chulu traverse despite attractive was a side project, so decided to abandon. Back to BC on same day, pitched back his tent. 04 Nov: left BC.
After that Kobusch went to Rolwaling with his girl friend, Jënni Jalonen.
5794m peak ascent in Rolwaling:
On 17 Nov, Kobusch and his girl friend, had a fine day climbing the 5794m peak lying south to Tsho Rolpa Lake. They christened it "peanut butter" mountain. Duet stopped its effort 30m below the rocky top in scary windy conditions. Various medium difficulties for a few pitches: some mixed ground, some snow and ice, some rock climbing up to 6a (1 pitch).
On 22 Nov, Kobusch and his girl friend climbed Parchermo by its normal route.
- 내부 원정 ID10380
- 원본 EXPIDAMOT19301
- 대장Jost Kobusch
- 루트 (Route)SSW Ridge from SE side
- 최고 도달고도6393m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 1명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jost Kobusch | Germany | Leader | 성공 | - | - |