원정 개요

BC just west of Langtang village.

2nd summit bid reached 5550m 14th April by Simpson, Serl, Parent and Herchmer. 2 spent night there but next morning weather bad, avalanche-type snow had fallen and climbers tired and sick.

Really high winds early in climb, bad weather brought too much snow later in climb which was very dangerous. Night of 26th March Serl and Croft caught out in terrifying electrical storm at 5550m.

Rib of S Face got difficult so moved to right off rib onto snow face; got to within 1500 ft of completing face and joining SE Ridge. Relatively safe route therefore early hazards are avalanches when heavy snowfall.


Mackay Johnston & Guest - 13 April 84

Croft left BC 5 days ago and Guest 3 days ago. Guest at 21,000 ft, so sick from altitude was unable take care of himself and at 17,000 ft lost vision one eye. Croft had retinal hemorrhage.

Sure others will make a 4th summit attempt when weather permits. Had terrible winds, strong enough to lean into.


Shrestha, Tourism - 11 April 84

2 groups made 1st summit bid from C1 16,800 ft:

On 29 March
Christopher Guest
Douglas Herchmer
John Simpson
On 30 March
Donald Serl
Peter Croft

Both groups met at high point 20,500 ft on 31 March. Simpson and Serl stopped at 20,800 ft by strong westerly wind and bad weather. Due to bad weather all above returned to C1. Planned another bid 8 April.