원정 개요

BC west of point 5415m
C1 at Tseringma Glacier.

Reached summit at 6:30 pm in very good weather including very little wind uniquely. Left C3 at 7:00 am after winds abated and got back to C3 at 2:30 am in pitch dark in slow difficult rappel down to top of from fixed ropes and very cold.

Took long time to reach BC because difficult jungle and police stopped them for 4 days while checking permit with Kathmandu (LO had not been with Culbreth at first).

Only one safe route on face as far as 21,800 ft which was made by 1979 expedition. Dangerous rockfall elsewhere. Then to right of 1979 route (not making 1979 traverse to left in 1979). Last part of climb was 70-80 degrees ice and then small crevasse on 60 degrees slope, again ice and rock to top.

An upper ice field Culbreth fell 45m on 16 May. Ang Kami fell 30m in descent from C3 on 18 May and burned hands on rope.