원정 개요

BC 14/10 4700m just above Dingboche
Biv1 28/10 5900m on the ridge with a small terrace
HPt 29/10 6300m
Smt 04/11 by Frey, Paul and 2 Sherpas.

Tamura tripped and fell, chipped his tooth, got dizzy and sent his clients up to C1 on 29 Oct; Sherpas had already gone ahead of them on 28 Oct. 29th Oct all 4 of the Sherpas got to 6300m; clients on 30 Oct got to 6100m.

Made many rotations to the col. The whole team experienced too much snow. With this factor and strong winds the Sherpas turned back at 5800m when they first attempted to go to C1 on 25th Oct. Clients turned back by 5600m.

Climb abandoned on 30 Oct due to bad snow conditions. Sugary snow up to thighs, not possible to even make anchors (kept coming out). Tried to dig deeper, impossible.

One of Tamura’s clients had a flight back home on 4 Nov (Bergsma already summitted AMAD before on normal route), so he left BC on 1 Nov for Namche. Next day flew out by heli to KTM.

On 1 Nov Gregory Paul and Martin Frey plus 2 Sherpas Nawang Tenzing Sherpa and Urken Sherpa left BC at around noon and decided to go to the Ama Dablam normal SW route. It was their first time.

Tamura also left BC on 1 Nov. Stayed a little later to pack with the remaining gear with Sherpas and went down to Dingboche by evening. Tamura then moved next day to Phortse. Bad radio reception so moved to Khumjung for better radio reception to keep communications with clients.

Oxygen: taken, not used (for medic reasons only).

Sherpas:
Phurba Tashi (Khumjung)
Nima Sona (Phortse)
Nawang Sherpa (Phortse)
Urken Sherpa (Phortse)