원정 개요

BC at Mingbo yak pasture (for water).

On 10th April heavy snowfall (10 inches) which tripled time from ABC to C1; most technical climbing is between C1 and C2; fairly difficult rock and with new snow had to fix 400 ft more rope than would otherwise and which meant later ran short of rope.

Reached C2 site on 18th April at top of yellow tower but never occupied C2 (at c20,000 ft). Snowed 2-3 inches fresh snow daily after 10th. All together in C1 decided supplies insufficient to succeed in the 10 days required at their rate of progress so far and more urgently had not that much time because had to be back in US at their jobs. Took 2-3 days to get all gear back down to BC.

French had gone to S Ridge also although their permit was for S Face - very gentlemanly immediately left because hadn't the equipment and technical competence.