원정 개요

Makalu (1st Attempt)
BC 16/04 4800m
ABC 19/04 5700m
C1 20/04 6250m
C2 21/04 6620m
HPt 24/04 6700m by Sykaris and Pasang Sherpa.

Sykaris had a bad cough and as he wanted to see a doctor he took a helicopter to Pangboche on 02/05. He saw a doctor in Pangboche who told him to recover, so he stayed in Pangboche until 08/05 and then he flew to Lhotse/Everest BC as Mingma of Imagine Nepal told him to come and climb Lhotse as his team was going up. He should then go back to Makalu afterwards.

Lhotse
BC 08/05 5350m
C1 --
C2 10/05 6400m
C3 11/05 7100m
C4 13/05 7700m
Smt 14/05 by Sykaris at 9:30 am [9:45 am].

Sykaris left C4 at midnight together with Imagine’s group. The couloir had been fixed by Mingma’s Sherpas on 14/05. Straightforward climb. He stayed about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 4 pm. On 15/05 C2 and on 16/05 BC.

Oxygen taken and used from C4 to summit to C4 by Sykaris.

Left BC to go back to Makalu: 17/05 helicopter to Namche. When he arrived in Namche, he went to see a doctor because of his cough and the doctor told him that he had pulmonary edema and should go home. But he did not and stayed in Namche for 6 nights. On 24/05 helicopter from Namche directly to Makalu ABC.

Makalu (2nd Attempt)
ABC 24/05 5700m
C1 --
C2 25/05 6620m
C3 27/05 7480m
HPt 27/05 7800m by Sykaris, Pasang and one more Sherpa at 10:30 pm.

HPt team left C3 6:30 pm. They ascended to C4, past C4 and did not find the fixed rope and climbed off the route. They reached 7800m, Syrkaris noticed that they were going the wrong way as they were not traversing across the slope, but they were going straight up. Pasang Sherpa said that the rope was buried underneath the ice and that they could not go up. However, as it turned out there was no fixed rope there as they were in the wrong place. When they noticed they turned back to C3, where they arrived at 12:30 am on 28/05. The next morning they descended to ABC, which took them about 8 hours.

Oxygen: Used from C3 to high point to just before C2 by Sykaris and Sherpa (to ABC).