원정 개요

C5 on NW Ridge at small saddle on NW Ridge.

Most difficult technically between C1 and C4 and from C5 to biv - steep ice: snow and ice 60 degrees, rock sometimes overhanging. Biggest problem was dangerous spots between C1 and C2 snow couloir, traverse 200m, and serac area below C4 sending down ice and route lay around seracs. Simon on top at 10:30 am, Stejskal and Jakes at 11:00 am, and these latter two met Silhan descending saying hurry to reach C4 but would wait at biv and cook there. When others returned to biv, he wasn't there. Stejskal looked for Simon and on snowy ridge and snow 100m above biv marks in snow leading to W Face. Other members might have tried for summit but with Simon's death, climb stopped.

"I think we were very lucky" not to have been hit by avalanche. Oxygen used by frostbitten (fingers) Silhan and Rajtar with serious altitude sickness.

Simon died in fall during descent from summit to bivouac.

Lhotse Shar more difficult technically but this route on Dhaulagiri I more dangerous. Impossible to climb W Face of Dhaulagiri in pre-monsoon on left side - on right side of face it is safe but very difficult rock.

23 Oct Jakes started 7:00 am, Simon and Stejskal at 8:00 am. Easy route from western summit to main summit but strong wind made moving difficult.