원정 개요

1st BC southwest of mountain
Biv C1 at bottom of West Ridge
2nd BC II Kyashar Glacier
2nd C1 at lateral moraine on west side of glacier
1st biv on a bottom between point 5991m and point 5652m
2nd biv at buttress
3rd biv on South Ridge
High point at the base of tower.

Found fixed ropes left by French in 1985 autumn on West Ridge when ridge covered with snow, but now snow gone and headwall to ridge entirely rotten rock. Climbed to 5365m on 4th Dec and then gave up intention to scale this ridge because of many rotten rock towers which would have required much fixed rope and time but intention was to climb rapidly, so descended to 4570m on 4th, dropped loads there and down to BC same day. On 5th tried another approach to ridge a little further east, but lot of rocks coming down so too dangerous to get close as back to BC.

6th to Manje and 7th went east through Kyashar Glacier to try South Ridge with Sherpas carrying loads to C1. 9th Aprin and Culver began alpine-style push up 600m loose rock up a buttress on E Side of S Ridge and biv without tent. 10th to very small ledge on buttress. 11th had climbing continued but snow on rock now, which made for faster climbing and reached ridge at 3:30 pm at base of tower (5790m). 12th looked at rock to tower but did not have enough gear for 300m vertical distance to rappel down in descent so decided to descend and were in BC on 12th determined to return to route in spring 1989 making stocked camp at 5730m and fixing whole buttress and perhaps 1st tower with Sherpas.