원정 개요

BC 21/04 4700m (at Chhukung Village)
C1 06/05 at Imjatse La
C2 07/05 at serac
C3 14/05 at cave
Hpt 14/05 6900m at place on the right same level than huge serac barrier at
c7000m by both members.

Climb abandoned on on 14 May due to dry conditions of the mountain.

Acclimatization:

Running on Island Peak.

Ama Dablam:

April 26. Duet started from BC. New route without name using a gully in a very logical obvious elegant dihedral (800m/WI4), reaching a notch at c6040m straight E below the 6182m bump lying ESE of Ama Dablam. Down by the same route on same day.

Nuptse (S Face):

British ridge with mushrooms, seracs, icefall. Tried it in alpine style. Very dry conditions.

Reconnaissance on April 28.
Apr 30: 1st climbing day. Chhukung La, then bivouac on the ridge. Technical in
such conditions.
May 01: second bivouac at the same place. High point in the ridge.
May 02: back down to BC. Hard conditions.

Lhotse Shar:

BC at Chhukung (lodge)
Really dry conditions season. More seracs. Since autumn 1996. Saw camps of the Koreans.
Approched by LSHR glacier. Stayed on the ridge from Imjatse La.

System use of 6mm rope, very quick method of abseil.
2 days rappeling down.

May 06: acclimatization more on the route. Slept at Imjatse La.
May 07: climbed to just above to the seracs. Bivouac on top of serac inside a
cave (c.”69” p151). Prepared some abalakovs to prepare the descent, to
save some time. One night in the col.
May 08: down to BC.

Waited for best forecast announcements. Wind going down, but precipitation up!
May 12: Chhukung to Col. Snowfall all day
May 13: Col to serac bivy. Snowfall all day.
May 14: Climbed up nicely in the morning … at 12h bad weather. Spindrifts...
Long section of climbing: down, back up, this just below Pt 7143m.
c6900m maximum.
Late in the afternoon, decided to come back to cave against the rock. Bivy there.
May 15: Down to previous serac bivy. Rappeling.
May 16: Down to col. Rappeling.
May 17: Col down to Chhukung. 20 kms.

Had tried it already until below the serac in 2010.

Team left BC on on May 21.

Route: Austrian route 1970 from Lhotse Shar glacier.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

Other peaks: AMAD, NUPT, peak without name nearby Kongma La.