원정 개요

BC 12/04 5400m
C1 15/04 6000m
C2 16/04 6450m
C3 ??/04 7100m
C4 22/05 7900m
EVER.Smt 23/05 by Revol, Anup Rai and Thuktang Sherpa at 10:50 am
LHOT.Smt 24/05 by Revol at 9:40 am.

Had acclimatization on Lobuche East.

Revol first intended to climb on Everest for her sole holidays pleasure, not for doing anything else than "fulfilling a child dream" (had a picture of Everest West Ridge when she was young in her room, with a pray sentence below it - her family being Christian). She wasn't here for doing any kind of performance, but making it as a regular Everest climber (jummaring, taking oxygen if necessary, not properly climbing), this to take the less risks as possible towards her husband. However if possible, she would try without oxygen as high as possible to test her limits. This would be her first expedition on the high peaks after the psychological personal crisis following Nanga Parbat tragedy of 2018.

Revol had told nothing about her expedition to any press or media back to France prior to her departure, intending to climb for he sole discrete pleasure.

Summits days (EVER+LHOT):

May 22: Revol started at 10 pm. She first intended to start at midnight or 1 am, but afternoon of 23rd was announced with bad weather (the one which stopped Goettler), so choose to start earlier. Since she had seen the potential coming crowd at South Col and knowing that weather forecast, she took an oxygen bottle and knew she would use it.

May 23: Just before dawn, was stopped 1h for a first traffic jam straight below the Balcony. With wind raising, blocked, focused on her extremities (moving fingers), she begun to take oxygen, which she would keep to the summit. In a mixed zone after the Balcony, would have a new stop for traffic jam. Then wouldn't be much annoyed by the queue at Hillary Step. She summited Everest at 10:50 am with her 2 Sherpas. Cold, but not especially on top (windy but with sunlight and sunshine, acceptable). Did pictures, Gopro, stayed maximum 30 min on top. Sent a SMS with her Garmin Inreach to inform her husband about her success with oxygen. On descent Anup Rai (cook) froze part of his right face (mask not well tight). Revol reached C4 in beginning of the afternoon, her Sherpas later.

Still focusing on her next climb, Revol was informed about a bad weather forecast for the afternoon of 24th, so she knew she would have to start as soon as possible, that with the use oxygen (“since I had use it already on Everest before that and that I had a short weather window, was even not a question using oxygen or not in such context”). Wind rose at 10 pm, still blowing at midnight. At 3 am on next day however it eventually calmed down, so that Revol straight prepared to use that short weather window.

May 24: Revol alone this time started from C4 (after 4:30 am) down to C4 Lhotse, then climbed up normal route to summit Lhotse at 9:30 am (Inreach time). Spent time gently on top enjoying the view, made a nice summit video in clear sky conditions. Back to C2. Intended to go back down to BC, but since Keval (India) was staying in a bad shape at C1, Rishi Bhandari of Satori Adventures asked her to stay at C2 that night.

May 25: C2 to BC.

Revol left BC on May 26.

Oxygen: Taken from straight below the Balcony to the top, back to C4. Not used for sleeping at C4. Day after from South Col C4 to the top of Lhotse via Lhotse C4, back to somewhere between Lhotse C4 and C3.

Hired:
Anup Sherpa
Tentuk [Thuktang] Sherpa

Revol used 2 Sherpas in case of emergency, in case she would have tried without oxygen.