원정 개요

BC 15/04 5350m
C1 23/04 6000m
C2 24/04 6500m
C3 26/04 7200m by Tomov, Runova, Danyalov
C4 15/05 7800m
Smt 16/05 by Pasang Chiring and Sadetskiy at 9.20am (with O2), Tomov and
Runova at 1:30 pm (w/o O2)
Smt 22/05 by Ashurly, Telnov, Lakpa Sherpa at 6 am

16/05 summit team left C4 at 2:30 am. On the ascent, the climb was quite straightforward, however, the climbers were tired. For the descent, see section “Ivan Tomov’s death”.

22/05 summit team left C4 at midnight. Straightforward climb. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit, and descended to C4, where they arrived at 8:30 am, they rested for a few hours and continued to C2, where they reached at 4 pm. On 23/05 down to BC.

Other members:

Danyalov reached C3 on 26/04 on acclimatization rotation. However, when he was at BC and heard about Tomov’s death, he decided not to go up.

Casasola reached C2 on 24/04. He did not sleep well and did not acclimatize well so he abandoned the expedition. He left BC on 09/05.

Team left BC on 25/05by foot.

Oxygen:
Used from C3 to top to C3 by Ashurly, Telnov, Lakpa Zarok, Saddetskiy and
Pasang Chhiring
Tomov did not take oxygen until he collapsed at C4
Runova took oxygen from 7700m on her descent to 7000m (she did NOT use O2 on
the ascent).

Ivan Tomov’s death:

On his way up Tomov was very tired. Gabriel Filippi talked to him, but Tomov did not respond. He thought he had hypoxia. On his way down Tomov met Ali Sadpara and Monica Witkowska and stayed in a tent with Sadpara at C4. Sadpara said Tomov was very tired and thirsty, but they did not have enough gas to prepare water. At 4 pm, Runova called BC and said she was descending, but had problems finding the couloirs due to bad visibility. BC told her to call every hour, but she failed to call at 5 pm. They were worried about her and sent up Pasang Chhiring, who was at C3 with Sadetskiy, with oxygen. At 8 pm, Pasang Chhiring got back to C4 and saw Runova in her tent and said she was fine. She had arrived there at about 7:30 pm. In the meantime, Sadetskiy had descended to C2. After Runova had told Pasang Chhiring that she was fine, he descended to C2, where he arrived at midnight.

Runova was in another tent, but she did not know that Tomov was still at C4, she thought he had gone down, but he was in the tent with Ali Sadpara from Pakistan. He said Tomov arrived there at about 3:30 pm. In the morning of 17/05, Ali Sadpara called Runova and said that Tomov had a problem. Runova radioed BC. She gave him dexamethasone and oxygen (there was oxygen at C4 as Tamang, the expedition leader, had sent it up as they did not have news from Runova). Runova bumped into Mohr and Mingote who helped her to drag Tomov down. They managed to get him down to about 20m below C4, where he died at 1:30 pm. Pasang Lama and Pasang Dorjee from Makalu Extreme were at C2 that morning and left at 10 am to go up to help him. However, Tomov had died in the meantime. They met Runova at the Yellow Band (7700m) and gave her oxygen, put her on a short rope and dragged her down to C2, where she arrived at 4 pm.

On 20/05 Ivan’s body was dragged to C2 by the Sherpas and then picked up by helicopter.