원정 개요

BC 23/04 5350m
C1 25/04 5900m
C2 26/04 6440m
C3 14/05 7000m
C4 15/05 7700m
Smt 16/05 by Mingote (w/o O2) at 1:30 pm and Mohr (w/o O2) at 3:30 pm.

Details of Salazar, Fiamoncini, Mohr and Mingote from Mohr:

Salazar and Mingote left C4 at 3 am, Fiamoncini and Mohr left at 4 am. Salazar reached 8200m, but turned back at about 5 pm as it was too hard. Fiamoncini reached 8300m at 3:30 pm and descended due to the weather and the time as it was too late.

Summit team spent about 20 minutes on the summit, but the weather was too windy. They all descended to C4 where they reunited with the rest of the team. When they left C4 to descend to C2, they saw Ivan Tomov literally dying. Mohr tied him to the fixed rope and Mohr and Fiamoncini started dragging him down. They took off his crampons to drag him down better and suddenly he died at about 7800m. They left him there at about 11 am and continued down to C2, where they arrived at 4 pm. On 18/05 Salazar and Garranzo descended to BC.

Oxygen:
Taken and used by O2-using Everest and Lhotse members from C2 to summit to base
of Lhotse and Sherpas from C3 to summit to base of Lhotse face.


Details of Witkowska from Witkowska:

Witkowska with Rima Sherpa started from C4 at 3 am. Summit at 11 am. Deceased Ivan Tomov was on summit with them. They took photos of each other. Tomov without oxygen. Witkowska with Rima on summit for 20-30 minutes. On the top wind picked up and weather deteriorated. They got back to C2 at 7 pm approximately. Left BC on 24/05 by helecopter.

Ali Sadpara summited 10 minutes after her, Witkowska says.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from 7200m to summit and down to C2 by member
From C3 to summit and down to C2 by Sherpa.


Details of Mingote, Mohr and Sadpara from Mingote:

They started between 3-4 am from C4. Sadpara hit by a rock in face at maybe 8000m, he started taking oxygen from there and continued ascent and summited at 12 pm. Mingote hit by rock at chest.

Mingote summited at 1:30 pm. He stayed on summit for 40 minutes. Back to C4 at 4 pm. Fiamoncini reached highpoint at 8300m. Weather not so good, a lot of wind, and he decided to turn around.

Next morning (17/05) Nadia (Russian) called for help. Tomov from Bulgaria in very bad condition. Mohr and Mingote tried to help him down the face on a mattress. Bulgarian died at 10 am on 17/05. Probably edema. He died 20 metres below C4.

Mingote wanted to climb Everest after Lhotse but abandoned plan because of throat infection and broken rip. Mohr now trying Everest without oxygen, Fiamoncini trying with oxygen.


Details of Castineyra and Garranzo from Castineyra:

BC 29/04
C1 02/05
C2 13/05
C3 14/05
C4 15/05 7850m
Smt 16/05 by Inigo Castineyra, Lakpa Sherpa at 10:30 am, Carlos Garranzo,
Dorjee Sherpa at 11:30 am.

Castineyra and Garranzo started from C4 at 2 am on 16/05. Castineyra with Lakpa on summit at 10:30 am, stayed on the summit for 20 minutes, back to C4 at 3:30 pm. Good weather, but a little bit of snow. Witkowska on the summit at 10:30 am.
Garranzo and Dorjee reached summit at 11:30 am. They got back to C4 at 3:30 pm.
Left BC on 20/05 heli to Lukla.

Castineyra frostbite on one finger.

Oxygen:
Used by Castineyra from C3 to summit and down to C4, by Lakpa Sherpa from
C4-summit-C4; by Garranzo and Dorjee Sherpa from C4 to summit and down to little
bit before C4.

Sherpas:
Lakpa Sherpa (S)
Dorjee Sherpa (S)


Piyali Basak turned back on 23 May from Everest Balcony due to altitude sickness and was heli-rescued from C2. She had planned to summit Everest and Lhotse on consecutive days.