원정 개요

BC near Japanese 1982 autumn BC site.

Fixed rope for 4 days from C1 to 6400m biv which reached 1 Oct. Some other members went as high as C1 but no higher. Beghin and Roche made summit push alone together from 1 Oct. Reached top 1:30 pm after 4 hrs climb on very long flat, windy plateau and returned to tent at 7400m. On 5th to 6400m site and 6th to high BC. So from C1 was pure alpine-style in 6 days to top and back to high BC. Most difficult sector was C1 to 1st biv, 6300m vertical rock wall and ten to 7000m is sharp ridge where had to be careful. At 7000m ws 200m-high hard ice and steep rock which was very difficult and needed fixed rope for descent. Above 45 degrees and slabs at altitude again requiring care (200m long traverse here). This last difficulty stopped 7200-7300m and above was snow ridge.

High hard ice and steep rock which was very difficult and needed fixed rope for descent. Above 45 degree iced slabs at altitudes again requiring care (200m long traverse here). This last difficulty stopped 7200-7300m and above was snow ridge.

1 Sherpa to C1 once and 4 from low BC to high BC.