원정 개요

BC 19/04 5500m
C1 - - (never slept at regular C1)
C2 23/04 6200m
C3 30/04 6980m
C4 14/04 7350m (only touched by team before summit push)
Smt 15/05 by Alvarez, Stefanov, Rotar, Kolouchova, Sarjanovich, Chhepal Sherpa,
Lakpa Temba Sherpa, Gyalu Sherpa, Ngima Thenduk Sherpa, Ang Kami Sherpa
Smt 15/05 by Lavaud, Dawa Sange at 7:15 am (see report below)
Smt 15/05 by Watanable, Pechhumbe, Kasang Dawa at 7:15 am (see report below)

Team left C4 at 6 pm on 14/05. Stefanov and Alvarez summited at 4:45 am. Fine weather, good conditions. Wind came from northwest, so they were mostly protected from wind. Cold on the top, -35°C. Stefanov had some problems with his oxygen on the summit; Alvarez’ Sherpa gave him second oxygen bottle.

Stefanov back to C4 at 9 am. Alvarez all the way down to BC the same day, she was back to BC at 8 pm.

Sarjanovich left C4 with others and reached the summit at 7:20 am. He was back to C4 at 12:30 pm.

Rotar and Kolouchova summited at around 5:30 am.

Blanc came back to Kanchenjunga because he wanted to complete 14x8000 without oxygen. He reached C1 (6000m) on 23/04 and abandoned attempt on 24/04 because he grew worried and didn’t want to risk his health by going without oxygen.

Wui Kin Chin was on the permit, but died on Annapurna earlier in the season. Li Jian-Hong got sick on Annapurna and abandoned Kanchenjunga attempt. He may be going to Makalu later in the season though.

Team left BC on 17/05 and returned to Ktmdu on 18/05 by heli from Tapethok.

Oxygen:
Used by Stefanov from C4-summit-C4
by Alvarez from C3-summit-C4
by Kolouchova, Sarjanovich and Rotar from C4-summit-C3
Rotar was also given oxygen after the climb in base camp.

Hired:
Chhepal Sherpa (S), Okhaldhunga
Lakpa Temba Sherpa (S), Sankhuwasabha
Gyalu Sherpa (S), Okhaldhunga
Ngima Thenduk Sherpa (S), Sankhuwasabha
Ang Kami Sherpa (S), Sankhuwasabha


Report from Sophie Lavaud:

BC 06/05 5500m
C1 - 6240m
C2 11/05 6220m
C3 12/05 6836m
C4 13/05 7325m
Smt 15/05 by Lavaud, Dawa Sange at 7.15 am.

When the team reached C2 on the summit push, it was very windy and it became clear that the Sherpas would not fix the ropes to the summit on 13/05. All climbers decided to stay at C2, but Lavaud and her team continued to C3 and then stayed two nights at C4 to wait for the rope to be fixed.

On summit day, team left at 5:30 pm on 14/05. Straightforward climb, but very busy on the route, especially on the descent. Spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 1 pm. On 16/05, all down to BC and left BC on 17/05.

Lavaud and Dawa Sange summited Annapurna 1 on 23/04.

Oxygen:
Used from C4 to top to C4 by Lavaud and Dawa Sange

Sherpa:
Dawa Sange Sherpa, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 25/08/1985


Report from Naoko Watanabe:

BC 06/05 5500m
C1 - 6240m
C2 11/05 6220m
C3 12/05 6836m
C4 13/05 7325m
Smt 15/05 by Watanabe, Pechhumbe, Kasang Dawa at 7:15 am.

On summit day, team left at 6 pm on 14/05. Straightforward climb, but very busy on the route, especially on the descent. Spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 3 pm. On 16/05, all down to BC and left BC on 17/05 by helicopter from Tapethok.

Watanabe and Kasang Dawa summited Annapurna 1 on 23/04.

Oxygen:
Used from C3 to top to C3 by Watanabe
From C4 to top to C4 by Pechhumbe and Kasang Dawa

Sherpas:
Pecchumbe Sherpa, Tashigaon, Makalu-Barun, 22/09/1987
Kasang Dawa Sherpa, Makalu-9, Makalu-Barun, 25/11/1992