원정 개요

BC 24/04 4950m Chose other site than Kari Kobler (Paulo Grobel's BC instead)
C1 26/04 5450m
C2 28/04 6030m
C3 29/04 6200m
Smt 30/04 by all members (except Wiedmann) and 3 hired.

April 26: entire team BC to C1.

April 27: had initially planned to go to C3 for deposit, then go back to BC. However weather forecaster warned Chatain to go before the 1st of May (90 km/hr wind announced). Neighbouring Japanese team forecaster having the same analysis, with a massiv cyclonic storm to develop in the Gulf of Bengal, and despite being short in acclimatization, they decided they would try the next day for a summit push*.

On that day, Bruno was not feeling well (problems to kidneys). So the team went back to BC. Chatain organized Bruno heli-rescue for the day after. Meanwhile, the team packed everything then went back up to C1 in the afternoon for sleeping.

(*A good choice, since in fact later on, Paulo Grobel would face adverse weather conditions; 1 Swiss and 1 Dutch climber would be evacuated from C3 for frostbite).

April 28: Bruno got heli-rescued from BC to Ktmdu. Rest of the team slept at C2.

April 29: team slept at C3.

April 30: At the end of the fixed ropes, leader decided to form 4 separate rope teams, which all summited. By time order:

12:30, Nima Tamang and Mathieu Voisin
12:45, Bankaji Tamang and Joaquim Ferreira
12:50, Pasang Sherpa and Pascal Pompei
13:20, Lionel Chatain, Delphine Bourdel and Sylvie Wintenberger

Windshield effect on that day: -30°C. Entire team slept at C3 after summiting.

May 1: entire team back to “Grobel's” BC.
May 2: left BC for Kobler's BC.

Fixed rope: 330m
150m above C3 (steep slope at 40-45° on 80m height; then 70m on the flat ridge)
180m in the final face (steepest section between 6500 and 6650m).
Remaining were the last October fixed ropes, at least 400m below 6500m which
had not been cleaned.

Oxygen: Taken, not used (medical emergency only)