원정 개요

BC 01/05 4800m
C1 04/05 5400m
C2 06/05 6100m
C3 08/05 6300m
Smt 09/05 by both members and Tamangs at 11:20 am.

When they left C1 the plan was to leave for summit push on 13th or 14th May. When they got to C3 Dawa telephoned NNMGA and they informed him that the weather was going to be bad between 10-13th May. The clients were in good shape, so they decided to go for the summit earlier.

On 09/05 woke up at 12:30 am, took an hour to prepare, 1:30 am began summit push.
Weather: high winds 40-45 k/phr winds.

After C3 winds were so big, they stopped to discuss how to proceed. Dawa Tamang made the decision that it’s normal to have high winds at this height of 6500m. 2nd French team (Paulo’s expeditions) decided to go for summit push after seeing that Dawa’s team was continuing.

By 7000m at around 10:30 am the 2nd French team of 2 members (1 client, 1 Sherpa) overtook Dawa’s team and summitted first. Dawa’s team followed and summitted at 11:20 am.

On Summit: 10 minutes. This is when Dawa noticed Ger Bergkamp's frostbite on his nose when he took off his buff (Ger was too happy on the summit to notice it).

Descent: Took some time because both clients had become weak. Gyan Tamang with Ger first arrived at 4:30 pm at C3. Dawa Tamang and Alexander Blankestijn 1 hour after. They all had a meeting in a tent, and that was when Dawa noticed the frostbite had become a bit black in some places. Slept at C3.

Next day: evac’d both clients on 10/05, 12 midday [from C3]. Alexander was fine, but accompanied his friend and went with him to CIWEC. Turned out Ger had frostnip.
Side note: Heli was busy on Everest/Lukla so it could not come in the morning. Also because of special permits needed for heli-evac, you need permission from the district CDO, so Dawa’s office had to arrange all the papers before the heli came (Summit Air).

Same day 10/05 Dawa Tamang and Gyan Tamang returned to BC.

Hired:
Dawa Tamang
Gyan Bahadur Tamang, Kavre, Timalgaon

Fixed rope: 550m from C3 by French team before.

Oxygen: Taken, not used.