원정 개요

BC 13/04 4750m
C1 22/04 5450m
C2 27/04 6000m
Smt 28/04 by Hanatani, Koyama, Shiogai at 10 am
Smt 09/05 by Tsuchida Sawa and Takahiro at 11:30 am.

28/04 summit team left C2 at 4:30 am. Clear weather and perfect climbing conditions. They spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to BC on same day, where they arrived at about 6 pm. There was no fixed rope and they did not need it.

On the first summit push Sawa and Takahiro Tsuchida reached 7000m, but turned back because they were both too tired. They spent the night at C2 and returned to BC the following day.

Sawa and Takahiro tried again for the summit. C1 on 07/05; C2 on 08/05 and summit on 09/05. They used the ropes the French team had fixed a few days beforehand. On their descent, they stayed at C2 and returned to BC on 10/05.

Himjung Attempt

Hanatani and Shiogai left Himlung BC for Himjung 06/05 (they did not leave earlier due to the weather) crossing the Himjung Glacier. The route took them past a peak of 6600m which they traversed just below the summit in very good conditions.

C1 06/05 5400m
C2 07/05 6000m
C3 08/05 6600m (past the traverse of the peak)
HPt 08/05 6600m by Hanatani and Shiogai.

The abandoned the climb due to loose rock which they would have encountered if they had continued on to Himjung. They would have had to downclimb into a rocky gully and that seemed to dangerous to Hanatani. On 09/05 they packed up their C3 and returned to Himlung BC. It took them about 12 hours.

Team left BC on 12/05.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used