원정 개요

BC 23/04 5700m
ABC 30/04 6400m
C1 04/05 7000m
C2 28/05 7700m
C3 29/05 8300m
Smt 30/05 by Frank Campanaro, Pasang Gombu Sherpa, Da Dendi Sherpa at 5:30 am,
McGuinness at 6:20 am, Synnott, Kusang Sherpa, Prakash Gurung
at 6:30 am, Ozturk, Bal Bahadur, Pasang Kaji, Lakpa Temba at 6:40 am,
Irving, Lhakpa Tenji at 6:45 am.

The aim of this expedition was to look for Andrew Irvine. McGuinness thought it could have been between the exit cracks and the 1st Step. The original plan was not to go to the summit, but look for Irvine. Due to Sherpa and Chinese pressure they decided to go for the summit. The team looked for Irvine with drones beforehand. They scanned the mountain with them and got good footage; however, there was too much snow to find anything. McGuinness also thinks it could have been swept off by an avalanche or maybe removed by the Chinese.

The plan was then to summit and look for Irvine on the way down.

Summit team left C3 at 11:30 pm on 29/05. All other teams had already left the mountain. Straightforward climb. They spent about half an hour on the summit. They descended to North Col and arrived there at between 6 pm and 8 pm. On 31/05, everyone back at ABC; 01/06 BC. Team left BC on 04/06.

On the way down, Irvine ran out of oxygen near mushroom rock. McGuinness gave him his oxygen.

Hurst abandoned at 7000m due to exhaustion.

Pollard abandoned at 7000m suspected TIA (brain stroke).

Kalisz abandoned at 7000m due to thrombosis (he was evacuated from BC on 12/05; he was diagnosed with three small thromboses in his legs and lungs, but has fully recovered now).

Sherpas above BC: 15

Oxygen:
Taken and used from 7000m to top to 7650m by members
Taken and used from 7650m to top to 7650m by Sherpas.