원정 개요

BC 15/04 5700m
ABC 21/04 6400m
C1 29/04 7000m
C2 21/05 7700m
C3 22/05 8300m
Smt 23/05 by Zucchelli and Changba Sherpa at 4:30 am, Holotik and Karma Sherpa
at 4:30 am, Deams, Pem Nurbu, Veldink, Pasang at 5 am, Dekker and Dawa
Sange at 6 am, Ciotau and Mingma Norbu at 7 am, Al Shelleh, Nga Tashi
Sherpa and Tashi Sherpa at 10:30 am, Maharjan and Pemba Sherpa at 11 am
Smt 24/05 by Shakirov and Lakpa Sherpa at 9 am.

23/05 summit team (apart from Kalpana and Pemba, Al Shelleh, Na-Tashi and Tashi Sherpa) left C3 at 8 pm; Al Shelleh, Nga Tashi and Tashi Sherpa at 1 am on 23/05 together with Abramov’s team.

Kalpana and Pemba Sherpa had put a camp higher than C2 at 7900m. They wanted to skip C3 and left their high C2 at 7 pm on 22/05 and joined the others from C3 at 11 pm.

Straightforward climb. Weather good, windy in the afternoon. Many people on the route. Waiting times at 2nd Step around one hour.

Descent to C3, arrived at 8 pm
Maharjan and Pemba
Descent to C2, arrived at 3 pm
Al Shelleh and Nga Tashi and Tashi
Dekker and Dawa Sangey Sherpa
Descent to C1, arrived at 6 pm
All remaining members

Kedrowski reached 8700m 23/05. He was low on oxygen as they had been standing in line at 2nd Step and so he turned back.

Coster reached 7000m on 29/04 (he never intended to summit).

Gilian Kit Wai Lee got rescued from 7700m. He collapsed on his summit push on 22/05 at 9 am. He was with Kalden Sherpa. Nga Tashi was his second Sherpa, but he was already on his way to C3 to set up camp. Kalden dragged Lee back to the tent at 7600m as Lee was unconscious. Kalden kept him warm in the sleeping bag and gave him a lot of oxygen until he gained consciousness again at about 12 noon on 22/05.

Meanwhile Nga Tashi and Dawa Sherpa joined Kalden at C2. At about 1 pm they started the rescue. Lee was still unable to walk, he was totally disorientated. The carried him down from 7600m to 7500m which took them 2 hours. The Chinese rope fixing team came down from the summit and five of them offered their assistance. Eight people were involved in the rescue now. They reached C1 at about 8 pm. As the rescue team was very tired and the Chinese doctor who was at C1 said that it would be fine to stay at C1. They continued the rescue on 23/05. Dawa Sherpa had come down to ABC on 22/05 and on 23/05 he ascended again with two Sherpas (Tibetans) to help. They continued the rescue and Lee was down at ABC at 2 pm. Lee was still hallucinating, coughing blood and severe HAPE. His oxygen saturation was 40 per cent even though he was on 3 liters/min of oxygen.

At 6 pm they strapped him on a yak to go to CBC, where he arrived at midnight. At 1 am on 24/05 he was driven to Kerung, from where he was put in a helicopter at 10 am and flown to Kathmandu to Grande Hospital. He has kidney failure, liver failure and pneumonia. He was in intensive care for 5 days and was moved to high care where he was still at the time of the interview.

Lee was intending to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen.

Reset of team left BC on 27/05.

Oxygen: Used from C1 to top to C1 by members; C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.

Sherpas (for Coster and Italians):
Dawa Dorchi Sherpa
Dawa Temba Sherpa
Dawa Sangay Sherpa (with Dekker)
Nang Tenjee Sherpa
Nga Tashi Sherpa (with Al Shellah)
Pem Nurbu Sherpa (with Deams)
Tashi Sherpa (with Al Shellah)
Kalden Phura Sherpa (with Gilian Lee)
Karma Dorje Sherpa
Lakpa Sherpa (with Shakirov)
Pasang Sherpa (with Veldink)
Chhangba Sherpa (with Zucchelli)
Pemba Sherpa (with Maharjan)
Mingma Nurbu Sherpa (with Ciotau)
Karma Sherpa (with Holotik)