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Satori Adventures Everest Expedition 2019

Everest · 2019 · 봄 (1) · Canada

원정 개요

BC 12/04 5400m
C1 21/04 6000m
C2 22/04 6400m (for Matthews, 01/05 for others)
C3 14/05 7100m
C4 15/05 7900m (massive garbage place!)
Smt 16/05 by Tsintsadze, Maher, Matthews, Kakka and 7 Sherpas.

May 15 started at 8-9 pm from C4; summit on the day after at 6:20 am (Matthews), 7 am (Deavan), 9:02 am (Kakka), 9:30 am (Tsintsadze). All back to C4 and slept there due to bad weather; next day down to C2; day after to BC.

Members:
Clayon Matthews summited May 16, descended to BC from C4 on May 17
Avtandil Tsintsadze summited May 16, descended to C2 from C4 on May 17
Dean Maher summited May 16, descended to C2 from C4 on May 17
Srinivasa Saripalli touched C2 on April 22 as high point. Was sick
from very beginning of the expedition, went back to KTM to recover for a
while, then back to the mountain. Eventually left BC on same day with Dean
Maher on May 18.
Sirak Seyoum (both nationalities USA/Ethiopia) passed the South Summit, down to
the col below where he stopped due to dehydration.
Jayesh Morvankar high point slightly higher than C3 on May 15. Left BC on ?
Keval Hiren Kakka summited on May 16, then 5 days later summited Lhotse on
May 21; down to C2 in between. Left BC on ? Back to KTM on May 25.

Left BC: May 18 Saripalli, May 19 Matthews, May 21 for Tsintsadze and Seyoum.

Oxygen: from C3 to summit to C2.

Everest Sherpas: 7 Sherpas, with 1 Sherpa for each on summit push.
Pasang Namgel Sherpa
Furte Sherpa
Tendi Sherpa
Mingma Temba Sherpa
Lakpa Tashi Sherpa
Dawa Temba Sherpa (with Maher)
Pemba Ongdi Sherpa (with Kakka)


Korea Gangwon Everest Exp 2019 (Hoping for the Unification of Korea)

Lee Kil-Bong and Lee Dong-Uk were Trekking Camp Nepal clients on the Satori Adventures permit.


Dean Maher report:

BC 17/04 5300m
C1 25/04 5800m
C2 26/04 6300m
C3 14/05 7300m
C4 15/05 7900m
Smt 16/05 by Maher with Dawa Temba Sherpa.

Thought to try for Manaslu, then Lhotse. Once at Everest BC thought he might be able to try for Everest, feeling fitter than many candidates. Had first a permit for Lhotse then switched to Everest a week before the summit push.

Summit day on 15th started at 9:30 pm (5 to 10 min maximum of waiting at various stops), summited at 7:30 am on the 16th, then back to C4 on that day; on 17th back to C2. On 18th got evacuated from C2 to KTM to CIWEC Hospital.

Minor frostbites contracted during summit night/push. Eventually has 1st degree for 3 toes, 2nd degree for 1 toe.

1st fully vegan summit. No down at all in the gloves, jacket, etc.

Found the camps relatively clean except C4.

Everest North next year or Manaslu without oxygen?


Keval Kakka report:

BC 12/04 5400m
C1 21/04 6000m
C2 01/05 6400m
C3 14/05 7100m
C4 15/05 7900m
Smt 16/05 by Kakka and Pemba Ongdi Sherpa
Smt 21/05 by Kakka and Nima Sherpa and Pemba Tashi Sherpa.

Summit day:
May 15: started at night at c10:30-10:45 pm.
May 16: from Balcony got windy at night with sprindrifts, not much visibility.
Light broke on below the south summit with a little accalmy, then from
South Summit got windy again until the smt. Cold. Smt of EVER reached at
9:02 am. Cold on summit, but Ok. Back to C4 at c1 pm.
May 17: from C4 to C2.
May 18: C2, weather not good. Aimed for Lhotse, but had to wait for weather to
improve.
May 19: same as May 18.
May 20: went from C2 to C4 of Lhotse.
May 21: started at 1 am, was very windy in the couloir. Smt of LHOT reached at
6:30 am, back to C1.
May 22: C1 to BC
May 23: left BC to Namche
May 24: Namche to Lukla.

Oxygen:
EVER taken from C3 to summit back to C3
LHOT from C3 to smt back to C3.
Same pattern for his Sherpas.

  • 내부 원정 ID10209
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER19141
  • 대장Clayton Matthews
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 16명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Clayton Vernon MatthewsCanadaLeader성공사용-
Keval Hiren KakkaIndiaClimber성공사용-
Dong-Uk LeeS KoreaClimber---
Kil-Bong LeeS KoreaClimber-사용-
Dean Mark MaherUKClimber성공사용-
Jayesh Madhukar MorvankarIndiaClimber-사용-
Srinivasa Venkata SaripalliUSA/EthiopiaClimber---
Sirak SeyoumUSA/EthiopiaClimber-사용-
Avtandil TsintsadzeGeorgiaClimber성공사용-
Dawa Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Furte SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa Tashi SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Namgel SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pemba Ongdi SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Tendi SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

https://satoriexpeditions.com/mt-everest-success/ · 2019 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.squamishchief.com/the-squamish-sound/special-edition-an-extended-interview-with-everest-climber-clayton-matthews-1.23841417 · 2019 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
Audio interview