American Everest Expedition 2019
Everest · 2019 · 봄 (1) · USA
원정 개요
BC 20/04 5300m
C1 05/01 6100m
C2 08/05 6500m
C3 21/05 7200m
C4 05/22 7900m
Smt 23/05 by Becker, Wehrly and NC Sherpa at 10:20 am.
Summit day: Oxygen stolen at C4, so only 3 of them were able to go up (not enough for all 4 members + hired). Would have to deal with a smaller quantity of oxygen than usual (NC and Dawa Hillary had put 16 bottles at C4). Wehrly and Becker carried 1 bottle from C2, starting using it from C3.
May 22: “slept” at C4, starting at 9 pm for summit push.
May 23: summit at 10:20 am, back to C4 between 5 and 6 pm, where they slept with their Sherpas.
May 24: from C4 to C3. On descent, group met one of their Sherpas going up to them (called Dawa Hillary Sherpa, because had got to Hillary Step previously). Karma was Ok, but NC was exhausted and had snowblindness. Karma and NC slept at C3, when Wehrly went down to C2 with Dawa Hillary. Becker had snowblindness, so got heli-rescued from C3 to Lukla on that day, then next morning to KTM (Ciwec).
May 25: Wehrly C2 to BC. Dawa Hillary to C4 and back to C2.
May 26: Wehrly stayed BC. Dawa Hillary stayed at C2.
May 27: Wehrly left BC by helicopter to KTM.
NC and Karma went back to C2 in the morning and were supposed to come back in the afternoon. However Dawa Hillary fell in a crevasse (a 100-ft fall) after a ladder had broken in the icefall on his descent. Dawa Hillary got heli-rescued with help of his colleagues and other Sherpas, so could be evacuated straight to KTM at the Norwic hospital on that day.
Bleeker high-point little after C3 with frosbite on May 22nd. Back to C2 on the same day, then heli-rescued from C2 to Lukla. Night then to KTM at CIWEC for basic cares. Bad enough for a rescue. She had to turn around or she would have lost her fingers according to Sherpas.
Hired:
Karma Sherpa (with Wehrly) to South Col/C4 max (oxygen not used)
NC Sherpa (facebook) (with Becker) to summit with both Wehrly and Becker. First
without them, then waiting for them at South Summit and finishing all together.
Oxygen taken from C4 to smt to C4
Dawa Sherpa (with Bleeker): HPt stopped at little above C3 (owner of the
company) (oxygen not used)
Dawa "Hillary" Sherpa: High-point at South Col this time. Wasn't meant to
climb to the top, or to climb as a "personal" Sherpa (oxygen not used).
Team left BC on May 27.
Oxygen: taken from C3 to SMT back to somwhere above C4. Ran out of oxygen on descent (below the Balcony for Wehrly).
- 내부 원정 ID10202
- 원본 EXPIDEVER19134
- 대장Thomas Becker
- 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도8849m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 7명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thomas Bain Becker | USA | Leader | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Elizabeth Anne (Elsa) Bleeker | USA | Climber | - | 사용 | - |
| Daniel Marcus Wehrly | USA | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Dawa Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Dawa Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Karma Gelgen (Karma Gyalzen) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Ngawang Chheten Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |