원정 개요

BC at usual site (1 hour from Samagaon)
C1 beginning of glacier
C2 at col between Manaslu and other peak (Naike Col)
C3 at top of Icefall
C4 on face
C5 on start of summit plateau (usual site)
High point at plateau.

Between C1 and C2 crevasses not big problem but were there. C2 to C3 problem to find way in icefall and had not much rope (put 200m fixed rope) which took many days. 7th Oct started or top but 8th Oct in C2 started long snowstorm so down to BC. Again to C2 on 16th Oct in 1-1/2m deep snow (C1 buried so went direct to C2). Slow going up because of deep snow; technical difficulty between C2 and C3.

26 Oct doctor's daughter went to 5600m where big dangerous seracs begin - with father and mother.


Bruno Honegger - 5 Nov 1984

Got to C1 carrying loads by ourselves; porters carried fuel but our gear Swiss carried several times; Sherpas sick or not carrying much.

4 Swiss got to C1 very fast and stayed there 3-4 days.
Difficult this autumn: this spring no crevasses and could ski.
Between C2 and C3 many crevasses and icefalls in autumn; had to fix 5 ropes between C2 and C3; really had to climb to C3 and took many days.

8 Oct started snowing
7 Oct reached C3 site and made depot and then back to C2.
6 Oct had hoped to go from C2 to top
9 Oct to BC = all 4 Swiss

Snowed 9 days
17 Oct 4 Swiss started up again and had to make track; went to C2 (no tents in C1 for Swiss - Swiss had tent at C2 only); took 10 hours for Swiss to reach C2 at 5600-5700m,

17 Oct Italians started up too - later than Swiss
18 Oct Italians to C3 at 6300m
19 Oct 4 Swiss to C3
20 Oct 4 Swiss to C1 to yet supplies and up to C3
21 Oct 4 Swiss to C4 at 6800m; also 2 Italians and 1 Sherpa Ang

22 Oct all 7 to C4 in 5 hours quite hard; C5 7400-7500m steep snow and had to fix one rope; beautiful day, clear, no wind perfect for top; no crevasses above on way to top; but night wind came up all night.

23 Oct no chance to go up because of wind; figured could wait to start 10:00 am (figured 6 hours to top); windy all day.

24 Oct windy again; wind in fierce gusts; leaders wife went down because fingers freezing and sirdar toes freezing; sure 4 Swiss leader could get to top without wind; at 10:00 am "our last chance and we take it and go as far as we can;" got out of tent to go up but couldn't start up in wind so took down tent and cleared all camps including all garbage.

25 Oct return to BC; Swiss left BC 27 Oct.

No frostbite, leader hurt knee slightly in final descent.

C1 at start of glacier 4700m. 26 Oct may be Dr. and daughter to C1; Dr. and wife (Carla Bianchi) did no climbing above BC except this.