원정 개요

This was a Science research project, the intention was not a summit bid but to install weather stations and collect samples of blocks of ice at the highest points possible, therefore closest to the summit would have been ideal, if a summit would have been impossible].

At BC: lots of science and media people; at least 20/30 Nepali student and faculty from Tribhuvan, another 20/30 US media and faculty from different universities, plus Swedish media; ICIMOD personnel Inga (German woman).

BC 18/04 5280m
C1 06/05 6100m
C2 07/05 6450m
C3 20/05 7120m
C4 21/05 7910m
Hpt 23/05 8450m on Balcony at 8450m at time 3:30 am.

The science team “worked” for 2 hrs installing weather stations and descended.

Climb abandoned on 23/05 due to over-crowding, and anyway it was not the premier objective. Would have been nice to put a station higher on either Bishop Rock or South Summit.

Summit push: 22/05 left C4 at 11:30 pm. Weather condition: light snow, light winds, good visibility. 22 pax set off, including the Sherpas. On 23/05 at 3:30 am arrived at the balcony at 8450m.

[Baker added that although nothing happened in his group, incidents did not make it favorable to push for a summit: when leaving C4 a climber was walking about wailing and disoriented and lost – our Sherpas reunited him with his group. At the lower section of the triangular face they passed a dead body of perhaps the Indian climber who had fallen the day before. Another climber was being evac’d, lowered, literally pulled down because he was not able to walk, suffering HACE].

Back to C4 23/05 at 8 am, packed and descended to C2, reaching at 2 pm. Back to BC on 24/05.

Team left BC on 24/05 most of the group by heli. Few of team stayed at BC then walked to Namche. Baker left Namche for KTM by heli on 28/05.

Sherpas:
Amrit Ale
Panuru Sherpa
Phu Tashi Sherpa
Ila Nuru Sherpa
Pasang Kami Sherpa
Fura Chheten Sherpa
Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa
Ngima Rita Sherpa
Urken Lenduk Sherpa
Gyaljen Dorji Sherpa
Pasang Sona Sherpa
Phinjo Sherpa
Pemba Sherpa
Lakpa Gyaljen Sherpa
Dawa Yangzum Sherpa

Oxygen: Taken and used

Members at end: to the highest point 6 internationals
Sherpas above BC: 15 to the highest point

Record: Highest weather stations in the world at South Col and Balcony.