원정 개요

Summit assault from bivouac delayed a day by fierce winds. 2 technically difficult sections:

(1) gully and rock system 16,000-17,500 ft where fixed 2000 ft,
(2) between C2 and C3 through an icefall of snow and ice climbing.

Less difficult than expected from 1979 attempt or more difficult E Ridge.

2-18 Oct: one week of storm, rest and meeting with trekking group and 4 days to make icefall route.

Yager hit 3 times by rocks in gully system but not serious injuries - some frostnip.

Thomas left early because afraid.


Letter from Stacey Standley - 29 Oct 1984

Pema Dorje and Mike summited at 1:45 pm. Oct 22 followed by Erick Jackson and Dan Langmade 45 minutes later. They left C4 at 8:30 am. On the summit they found a Japanese ice axe on a piton.

I have marked our 4 camps above base on the photo at the top. C1-18,000 ft, C2-20,000 ft, C3-22000 ft, C4-23,000 ft.

All climbers ascended without oxygen. We spent 36 days on the mountain above the base camp. We were pinned in high camps by bad weather for 9 days.