원정 개요

BC 13/04 5350m
C1 22/04 5900m
C2 24/04 6440m
C3 21/05 7100m
C4 22/05 7900m
Smt 23/05 by Gudmundsson, Svavarsson, Dawa Wangchu, Dawa Bhote and Chewang Dorje
at 5:15 am; Ang Dorje and Sung-Bin Hilaire, Rinjin, Pemba, Dawa Gelje
at 5:55 am, Johnson and Nima Chiri at 6:15 am, Smith, Pancoe, Pasang
Bhote, Chheten Dorji, Guru Bhote, Tschupp and Pasang Anju at 7 am.

Summit team left C4 at 9:45 pm. Slow going all the way to the Balcony. Below the Balcony they witnessed three people being lowered down, who were very exhausted – one of them maybe dead (probably from Kaitu expedition). After Balcony people spread out a bit. Straightforward climb for the group. There were about 35 people on the summit. They spent about 30 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 12:30 pm.

Team, apart from Smith and Chheten Dorji, descended to C2 on 24/05 and BC on 25/05. Pancoe was intending to go to Lhotse afterwards, but was too tired and descended with the rest of the group.

Johnson was flown out of C2 on afternoon of 24/05 due to minor frostbite on a few toes.

Smith and Chheten Dorji left Everest C4 at 5:45 am. They reached Lhotse C4 at 6 am (very fast!), changed oxygen and left C4 Lhotse at 6:10 am. Only Elisabeth Revol on the route. They summited Lhotse at 11 am, spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5 pm. The Everest team was still at C2 and on 25/05 they all descended together.

Non-summitting members:

Hughes reached C3 on the second rotation, which was his high point. On summit rotation he reached C2, but had a chest infection and abandoned climb. He was helicoptered out of C2.

Roberts stayed with Hughes and flew out of C2 with him.

Crosse reached C2 on first rotation. He did not really acclimatize well and suffered from altitude. He was flown out from C2.

Gudmundsson was a private client of Leifer Svavarsson.
Alex Pancoe was a private Everest/Lhotse client of Robert Smith.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C3 by members
From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas
On Lhotse Smith and Chheten from Everest C4 to top to C2.

Sherpa biodata:
All Sherpas have been with AC before apart from Chheten Dorji.