원정 개요

Approach: Flight to Lukla on 29/04, trekking via Namche, Chhukung, Amphu Laptsa Pass, Mera Peak.

10/05-16/05: Base camp at approximately 4800m
16/05: Advanced base camp at 5200m
17/05: Bivy I at 5600m
18/05: Bivy II at 6000m
19/05: Bivy III at 6700m
20/05: Bivy IV at 7250m
21/05: Summit at 10am by both members. Traverse and down to Bivy V at 7000m
22/05: Bivy VI at 6000m
23/05: Back to base camp (4800m)
Holecek same day to Khare; Hak stayed at BC. They both met again in
Khare on 24/05.
25/05: Trek to Kote
26/05: Trek to Lukla
27/05: Flight to KTM

Alpine-style ascent. Found old rusty piton and carabiner near summit at 7000m. Probably from 1962 first ascent.

They only took one rope 80m, 7mm. Northwest face mostly 70°, some parts 90°.
Some parts good, some parts horrible. First part of NW Face problematic because of rockfall. High objective danger. Second half of face some danger because of seracs. Strong winds coming every day after noon. They only climbed to noon, after that no visibility and too windy.

Passage between 6000m and 6700m most difficult. Mixed ground. After that totally committed, no way back. Very sharp summit ridge for 1 km, problematic. Bivy IV located on summit ridge, only 1 hour to summit from there. They started from bivy IV at 9 am. On summit at 10 am. Beautiful view from the summit, very cold.

Descent via South Ridge (classic route 1962). Many rappels down, more difficult than expected.

Climbing route: Ascent North Face/Northwest Face; descent via South Ridge

Oxygen: Not taken, not used.

Other peaks: Mera Peak on 08/05.