원정 개요

BC as same as Group I (northwest shore of Tilicho Lake)
C1 on top of first spur
C2 on NW Ridge
High point on NW Ridge.

Technically not difficult, 1st spur rock is Grade 3. At top of this just below C1 65 degrees snow. But first climb in Himalaya for all in Spanish group including leader. Left BC 30th Oct for Jomsom via Mesokanto Pass which is very steep on far side (NW).

Not on mountain, but one member got frostbitten finger on Mesokanto Pass as did seven porters in fingers and toes: just strong very cold wind.

Autumn 1984 Tilicho French-Spanish:

After expedition climbing finished, 7 local porters left in snowstorm and no members took any care of them - were between BC and Jomsom. On 31 Oct were taken to Jomsom hospital by 2 LO's and Dr. there suggested they be taken to KTM for treatment of smaller feet and hands. HMG asked trekking agent to provide funds to bring them to KTM and give treatment. Only then agent acted and they were given treatment and recovered. HMG asked leader through agent to report regarding incident as per rules but he never turned up. Agent said was out of KTM on trek: Rule 23 violated: neither leader or anyone on his behalf turned up.

Therefore as per Rule 38 of Tourism Act HMG debarred Schmutz to participate in expedition for 5 years from 1984 autumn and have asked Federation Francaise de la Montagne, who recommended his expedition, to brief and meet all mountaineers before to abide by our regulations strictly and to maintain spirit of mountaineering for purpose of international friendship.

Federation reply from Maurice Barrord, says very sorry; [HMG] decision seems justified and if we find Schmutz did as reported, Company will not sponsor him for any expeditions.