원정 개요

Seven Summit Treks Annapurna expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Seven Summits provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below.

Rope-fixing team
Mingma David Sherpa
Gesman Tamang
Gyalje Sherpa
Halung Dorchi Sherpa


Michel Baronian (France)

Camps: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6500m),
C4(22/04,7000m),xxx(23/04,7400m)
Left: 26/04/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned due to too much snow and high wind.

Baronian and Pemba Sherpa started their summit push from on at 11 pm 22 April without supplementary oxygen. They reached 7400m around 3 am of 23 April and gave up further climbing due to snow conditions and wind plus he had to wait for an hour on the route and that was difficult for the climber without supplemental oxygen.

Oxygen: Not used, not taken

Sherpa:
Pemba [Thinduk?] Sherpa


Yachiyo Suzuki (Japan)

Camps: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(21/04,6500m),
C4(22/04,7000m),Smt(23/04)
Left: 25/04/2016
Hired: 2
Term: Success (4 pm)

Suzuki and two Sherpas started their summit push form C4 on at 8:40 pm 22 April. They reached summit around 4 pm of 23 April, stayed on summit for about 10 minutes, then got back to C4 around 8 pm. They descended to BC next day.

Oxygen: Suzuki from C2-summit-C4, Sherpas C4-summit-C4

Sherpa:
Gyalge Sherpa
Lama [?]


Naoko Watanabe (Japan)

Camps: BC(29/03,4200m),C1(09/04,5000m),C2(10/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6500m),
C4(21/04,7050m),Smt(23/04)
Left: 25/04/2016 by heli to Pokhara
Hired: 2
Term: Success by Watanabe and Kasang Dawa at 3:52 pm

Summit team left 10:30 pm on 22/04. Rope was fixed by Nims Purja's team. Difficult climb. They spent about 20 min. on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 10 pm. On 24/04 to BC.

Oxygen:
Used from above C2 to top to C2 by Watanabe
From C4 to top to C4 by Kasang Dawa.

Sherpa:
Kasang Dawa Sherpa


Haakon Aasvang (Norway)

Camps: BC(28/03,4200m),C1(07/04,5000m),C2(08/04,5500m),C3(21/04,6500m),
C4(22/04,7000m),Smt(23/04)
Left: 26/04/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success by Aasvang and Gesman Tamang at 4 pm

Aasvang and his Sherpa along with other climbers started their summit push from C4 at 11 pm of 22 April and they reached the summit at 4 pm of 23 April. They stayed on summit for about 15 minutes and returned C4 at 6pm. Next day 24 April they went down to BC. The weather was clear and no wind. This was his second attempt. His first attempt was in 2017 on French route and had to abandon from C3 due to too much snow.

Oxygen: Aasvang and Tamang from C3-smt-C4

Hired:
Gesman Tamang


Sergei Baranov (Russia)

Camps: BC(28/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(21/04,6500m),
C4(22/04,7000m),Smt(23/04)
Left: 26/04/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success by Baranov and Ming Temba at 3:15.

Baranov, Nims Purja and Sherpas started on 23/04 from C4 at 1 am. Baranov and Ming Temba were the last to leave C4. Very deep snow. Purja and his Sherpas were in the front, but they alternated. Fixing team were about 4 people. Baranov and Ming Temba caught up with the rest of the group (who left at 10 pm on 22/04) at 2 pm. Mingma David broke trail through the whole French Couloirs.

Weather conditions: very cold and windy. By first light sun came out, great day, not below -20; It was a late summit 3 pm, getting dark, but weather was good. The Sherpas fixed about three quarters of the French Couloirs.

They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 6 pm (all summiters).

Baranov skied from C3 to BC (on 2nd rotation). He did not ski on summit rotation as he lost his ski boots in an avalanche that hit crampon point on 21/04.

Oxygen: Used from C4 to summit and back (2 bottles)

Sherpa:
Ming Temba Sherpa


Don Bowie (USA)

Camps: BC(27/03,4200m),C1(10/04,5000m),C2(11/04,5500m),C3(21/04,6500m),
C4(22/04,7000m),Smt(23/04)
Left: 26/04/2016
Hired: 0
Term: Success (3:30 pm)

Bowie left C4 at 11.30 am. He was climbing without oxygen and caught up with the rest of the group after about half an hour. He had to wait in line for about an hour and decided to go down. He met Tendi Chhumbi Sherpa (with Findik) who grabbed him and told him to turn around and continue to climb. Eventually he was able to pass the rest of the group and continued to follow the He Jing, who was also attempting to climb without supplemental oxygen. As Bowie was not wearing a downsuit and no 8000m boots, his main concern was to stay warm. It was completely calm. The group was moving very slowly. Mingma David, Gesman Tamang and Gyalge were fixing rope at the front. He spent about 20 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where he arrived at 7 pm. Stayed for the night

Don acclimatised on the other side of the mountain and slept a couple of nights at 4800m on 04/04 and 05/04. He then went around to the north side and had his first night at C1 on and then stayed five nights at C2 he touched C3 on that rotation.

Oxygen: Not used, not taken

Malaysian rescue:

Bowie heard about Wui Kin Chin still being up on the mountain. They waited for the oxygen to be dropped by helicopter. However Gobal Rescue, the insurance company, refused to drop the oxygen for insurance reasons. As there was no oxygen, Bowie went to BC on 24/04. In the meantime, Chin’s wife organised a helicopter. On 25/04 Simrik arrived. Chin was at 7500m. The B3 took Nims, Mingma David, Gesman Tamang and Gyalgen to C3 by long-line. They then climbed up to C4 and reached Chin at about 7 pm. The rescue team then dragged Chin down to C3, where they arrived in the morning of 26/04. Simrik then long-lined him to BC. According Bowie, Chin could not move his legs or bend them and his legs were frozen to the hips. Bowie flew to hospital with Chin.


Tunc Findik (Turkey)

Camps: BC(28/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6500m),
C4(22/04,7000m),xxx(23/04,7400m)
Left: 25/04/2016
Hired: 1
Term: Success by Findik and Tenji Chumpi at 3:00 pm.

Findik and Tenji Chumpi started out on 22/04 from C4 at 10 pm.

Weather conditions: very cold and windy. By first light sun came out, great day, not below -20; It was a late summit 3 pm, getting dark, but weather was good.

Technical: C2 to C3 was hardest. They did a variation of the Dutch Rib, before C3.

Fixed ropes: Yes (Mingma David, etc, Nims Purja, fixed in advance especially on the French Couloir before the summit).

Route: From BC, side of the moraine 50m rappel; to C1 400-500mtrs; from C1 cross flat glacier 2 kms (lots of crevasses); to C2 another 600-700m fixed line, crevasse ice wall 55-degree ice climb; to C3 700m of ice climbing (grades 50 to 90); small vertical steps from C3 to C4, lots of crevasses so all the way almost fixed lines. Summit day – generally easy, but with some ice slopes that needed fixed ropes. The sickle glacier to the summit was a fixed line all the way, flat, even if not need, deep snow, trench walk. To the summit last 300m (French Couloir) 45-degree snow and ice, on the entrance grade 2/3 easy mixed climbing on rock.

Route condition/avalanche/snow conditions: deep snow, had a trench like trail.

How long on summit before descending: 10-12 minutes; in 2.5 hrs back to C4 at 5:30 pm (Tenji followed 45 mins after).

Back to BC on 24/04: started at 7 am from C4 7000m, reached C2 at 9 am. Arrived BC by 1:30 pm same day (24/04). Findik was first to arrive at BC out of those who summited that day.

Next day 25/04 heli to Dana/Tatopani, evening in Pokhara.

Oxygen: Used (1 tube from 7000m to summit back to C4)

Sherpa:
Tenji Chumpi Sherpa


Sophie Lauvad (Switzerland)

Camps: BC(28/03,4200m),C1(03/04,5000m),C2(04/04,5500m),C3(20/04,6500m),
C4(22/04,7000m),xxx(23/04,7400m)
Left: 25/04/2016 by heli to Pokhara
Hired: 1
Term: Success by Lavaud and Dawa Sangay Sherpa at 3:15 pm.

Summit team left C4 at 10:30 pm on 22/04. It was cold and a little windy. Nims Purja and his Sherpas fixed the rope to the summit in sections. They left the French Couloir and went to the left side to the summit. They spent about 15 minutes on the summit and descended to C4, where they arrived at 6:30 pm.

When they were at C4 they heard on the radio that the Malaysian climber was still on the mountain. Nima, Chin’s Sherpa, came down to C4 and said that his client was exhausted and he thought that he had edema. Nima went to sleep at C4. The team at C4 could not do anything as they had used up all their oxygen and the Sherpas would have been too tired to go back up without oxygen. The following day, they descended to BC. On 25/04, the helicopter came to drop three Sherpas off at C3 (see Don Bowie’s account above).

Avalanche on Crampon Point: On 17/04 an avalanche wiped out crampon point (4500m). Fortunately nobody was on the mountain, everyone was at BC. Both Dawa Sangay and Lavaud lost their crampons. Fortunately, they had spare crampons which they picked up from BC.

Oxygen: Used from C4 to top to mid-way down to C4 by Lavaud and Dawa Sangay.

Sherpa:
Dawa Sangay Sherpa


Sebastiano Valentini (Italy)
Mario Casanova (Italy)

Name: Trentino Annapurna 1 Expedition 2019
Camps: BC(08/04,4200m),C1(12/04,5000m),C2(17/04,5500m),C3(11/05,6500m),
C4(12/05,7100m),xxx(13/05,7350m)
Left: 14/04/2016
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned due to high winds.

Casanova reached C5 site together with Arjun Vajpai on 13/05. They were on their summit push; however, the winds were too strong (about 50km/h) to continue. So he decided to descend. On 14/05, he descended to BC, which took him about 14 hours.

Valentini reached 6200m on 11/05. He has been having stomach problems and was too weak to continue. He descended to BC.

Valentini and Casanova did not join the big summit push 23/04 as they were on their own program, no Sherpas and no oxygen. There were too many people on the route for them and the weather window was not long enough.

Oxygen: Not used, not taken


Other climber notes from Tunc Findik:

Info on other climbers: On summit Nims Purja was there as well as Lavaud and Dawa Sangey (climbed with Lavaud before), Mingma David Sherpa, Don Bowie (10 mins after w/o O2), Baranov just minutes before; Aasvang and Jones-Warner just behind, Cho also (Korean).

1. Baronian – returned a little bit above C4; didn’t feel good, very cold.
2. Celikovic retreated above C2 at 6100m. Icefall too technical, too exposed for
him.
3. Casanova still in BC trying and Valentini also (who is not on Findik’s permits)
4. He Jing tried without O2 but used it 200m before summit.
5. Baranov summited just ahead of Findik.
6. Chin (Malaysia) arrived late at 5:30 then went missing. Had a personal Sherpa
and had quarrel, didn’t want O2. Sherpa left him near the summit (on way down?
Did he summit? Apparently has photos to prove it).
7. Japanese Suzuki and Watanabe both summited with lots of O2.
8. Lavaud summitted.
9. Don Bowie summitted without O2.
10. Rupert Guy summitted
11. Cho (Korean) summitted
12. Aasvang (Norway) summitted

Remaining to summit on Arjun Vajpai, Italians (mentioned in no.3), Li (Chinese)