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Utmost Adventure Ama Dablam Expedition 2019

Ama Dablam · 2019 · 봄 (1) · Czech Republic

원정 개요

BC 16/04 4600m all except Paunescu, Thakuri
20/04 Paunescu, Thakuri
C1 19/04 5700m Goldsmith, Travnicek, Jirkova, Novotny, Simanek, Juracka
21/04 Mell, Quirk, Pantel
23/04 Thakuri, Paunescu
C2 25/04 6100m Pantel, Mell, Travnicek, Jirkova, Juracka, Novotny
HPt 26/04 6700m by Novotny, Astani, Lhakpa Sherpa (junior)

Climb abandoned on 26/04 due to ropes not fixed to summit and difficult conditions.

Summit push started on 26/04 at 2 am. Novotny with Astani and Lhakpa (junior) started at 2 am to fix the remaining ropes to the summit. Rest started at 4 am. Pantel turned around shortly after C2 at around 4:30 am because he felt physically unwell and low on energy; after some rest at C2 he went all the way down to BC (noon).

Novotny, Astani and Lhakpa (junior) turned around at approx. 6700m, because of difficult snow conditions. Novotny asked Sherpas to belay him for fixing the ropes, but Sherpas were reluctant. Novotny down to BC the same day at 7 pm.

Mell and Lhakpa (senior) turned around at 6400m because ropes not fixed.

Travnicek and Juracka turned around at 10 am at C3 (6300m). All back to C2 at 3 pm.

Jirkova stayed at C2 because she had pain in her back.

Simanek didn’t have climbing permit and only went to C1.

Quirk to C1 on 21/04. She didn’t go higher because she had problems with the altitude and didn’t feel well.

Goldsmith to C1 on 19/04. He later suffered from severe diarrhea and was flown to hospital in KTM for treatment on 25/04.

Paunescu reached C2 on 23/04. He felt too weak in the morning to go any further and abandoned his summit attempt there.

Thakuri reached 5900m on 24/04. He wasn’t acclimatized enough and turned around between C1 and C2. He joined Goldsmith in helicopter to KTM on 25/04.

Team left BC on 28/04 (Pantel, Quirk, Novotny) and 29/04 (Mell, Travnicek, Jirkova, Simanek, Juracka).

Oxygen: Not taken not used.

Other peaks: Lobuche East (Goldsmith, Juracka, Travnicek, Jirkova, Novotny, Simanek)

Members:
Jan Travnicek (6300m)
Miroslava Jirkova (6100m)
Marek Novotny (6700m)
Petr Juracka (6300m)
Jan Simanek (5700m)
Samuel Goldsmith (5700m)
Tobias Pantel (6100m)
Stephanie Quirk (5700m)
Georgette Mell (6400m)
Mihai Paunescu (6100m)
Ganesh (Subin) Thakuri (5900m)

Hired:
Nar Bahadur Astani Magar (6700m), 25/07/1989
Lhakpa Sherpa (Sr.) (6400m), 24/01/1964
Lhakpa Sherpa (Jr.) (6700m), 28/03/1989
Ongchhu Sherpa (6100m), 24/11/1981 (AMAD-181-04)

  • 내부 원정 ID10150
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD19106
  • 대장Jan Travnicek
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6700m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 15명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Jan (Honza) TravnicekCzech RepublicLeader---
Samuel James GoldsmithUKClimber---
Miroslava (Mirka) JirkovaCzech RepublicClimber---
Petr Jan JurackaCzech RepublicClimber---
Georgette Charlotte Mell SalazarChileClimber---
Marek NovotnyCzech RepublicClimber---
Tobias PantelGermanyClimber---
Mihai PaunescuRomaniaClimber---
Stephanie Bridget QuirkAustraliaClimber---
Jan SimanekCzech RepublicClimber---
Ganesh (Subin) ThakuriNepalClimber---
Nara Bahadur AstaniNepalH-A Worker---
Lhakpa SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Lhakpa (Kongle) SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Ongchhu SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

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