Austrian Glacier Dome Expedition
Glacier Dome · 1984 · 가을 (3) · Austria
원정 개요
BC at 4300m SE of Fluted Peak - between Fluted and Tent Peak on moraine
C1 on 5050m at beginning of icefalls below saddle between moraine of
Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome's West Ridge
C3 at 5650m above couloir and just before big icefall
C4 at 6050m near top of big icefall.
Had problems with bad new snow to C2, C3 and C4. Between C2 and C3 big very dangerous couloir (from icefall and avalanches). Between C3 and C4 very steep big icefall which needed 60m fixed rope. Then above C4 big crevasse which 60m+ deep and 10m wide from one end of glacier to other but small snow bridges out from each side at right end of crevasse. Also steep slope avalanches, one of which carried a Sherpa 15m between C3 and C4. From saddle to top good snow and steps by Swiss East Ridge but from C4 to saddle at 6200m one more big crevasses but not so much trouble as lower one.
- 내부 원정 ID1015
- 원본 EXPIDGLAC84301
- 대장Josef Oberauer
- 루트 (Route)SW side (from col betw Fluted Peak & Glac Dome)
- 최고 도달고도7069m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 8명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Josef Oberauer | Austria | Leader | 성공 | - | - |
| Herta Kantner | Austria | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Werner Masik | Austria | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Friedel Schunk | USA | Climber | - | - | - |
| Helka Schunk | W Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Klaus Solbach | W Germany | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Ang Nima Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Gyalgen Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |