원정 개요

Camp Coordinates:
C1: N 27.757616, E 87.925472
C2: N 27.757663, E 87.922951
C3: N 27.757104, E 87.919571
Smt: N 27.758384, E 87.919228, 6328m
C4: N 27.765087, E 87.924086

Team set out from C3 at 9 am and summited at 10:30 am, then descended separate line (N Ridge) to Camp 4, reached at 5:30 pm.

We climbed the East Face and descended the North Ridge. We had considered descending the same line of descent, but had scouted the alternative snowy North Ridge. We realized it would be time consuming and dangerous to rappel and downclimb the line of ascent because of complicated terrain, multiple required rappels, and some observed rockfall.

ED2, AI5 M6. From Camp 1 at base of East Face, followed 2 gully systems through 4 cliffbands with ice and mixed climbing to pass each cliff band. Switched gullies to the north after 2 cliffbands via a snowfield. 10 pitched-out pitches, about 14 simulclimbed pitches of steep snow to 90 degrees. 8cm of snow the first night. Temperatures down to -25C at night at Camp 3, with steady 25 knot winds on summit ridge. Several solid ice pitches, some loose rock on mixed pitches. One rockfall event down lower line of ascent after passing. 5 full-length rappels and steep downclimbing to descend.