원정 개요

Approach: Helicopter from KTM to Lukla, trekked to BC at Goyko 5th lake. Helicopter from BC to ABC.

BC 28/10 5000m Gokyo 5th lake
ABC 31/10 5848m Nup La Pass
Smt 02/11 by all members (except LeClaire) and all hired.

BC at Gokyo 5th lake. Climbed Gokyo Ri and Ngozumpa Tse for acclimatization. ABC right on the Nup La. Glacier between BC and ABC very broken, a lot of crevasses. “It would take weeks or months to find a way through the glacier”. By helicopter from BC to ABC.

Team set off from ABC at 2 am. Everyone summitted between 11:30 am and 12:30 pm. Climbing was on the SW Ridge, between 45° and 60°, on a lot of hard ice, hard snow conditions. They used a lot of ice crews and snow bars. Really nice summit day, very clear, no wind, no clouds. Team stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes, then down to ABC. Reached ABC around 4 pm. Next morning everyone by helicopter to BC. Madison, Bennett, Veres back to KTM by helicopter the same day. Miller, Pattison and Settemsdel stayed in Khumbu to attempt Ama Dablam.

Carolyn LeClaire (was on the permit, but decided not to climb during the trek, she just went to Gokyo and left the team there).

Team left BC on 03/11.

Oxygen:
Taken and used by Settemsdel, Miller, Bennett, Veres from 6000m to the summit
and down to 6000m.

Fixed rope: From ABC to summit (total rope: 1400m / 1000m vertical metres)

Other peaks: Miller, Pattison, Settemsdel to attempt Ama Dablam afterwards.

Hired:
Aang Phurba Sherpa (S)
Pasdawa Sherpa (S)
Kami Dorjee Sherpa (S)
Tashi Sherpa (S)
Lakpa Dendi Sherpa (S)