원정 개요

BC 15/09 4750m
C1 20/09 5600m
C2 26/09 6400m
C3 27/09 6760m
C4 28/09 7400m
Smt 29/09 by all Chinese members, Dawa Steven, Samir Jung Thapa, Kenji Kasahara
and 13 Sherpas between 6 am and 8 am.

Summit team left C4 between 11 pm and 2 am. Conditions were little gusty and clear. Snow hard and crispy. They spent an average of around 20 minutes on the summit. Dawa Steven, Jung Thapa, Tang Qun, Xin-Yong Zhou, Xie Wei and Kenji Kasahara descended to BC where they arrived between 7 pm and 9 pm. The rest of the team descended to C2.

On the descent, Shu-Jie Gong took a wrong step and broke the outside bone of her ankle at about 7500m at about 11 am. Five Sherpas carried her down to C3, where they arrived 10 pm. On 30/09, all 13 Sherpas worked together and helped her down to BC, where they arrived at 2 am. It took them 19 hours. On 01/10 Gong took a helicopter from BC to Samagaon, where she stayed the night and on 02/10 helicopter to Kathmandu and got admitted to CIWEC.

On the way up, Dawa Steven Sherpa and Zhang were caught in an avalanche below C3. They were dragged with it for about 10m. They were clipped into the rope and got out of the avalanche.

Zhou and Xie skied down from the plateau (below the false summit) to about half way to C4 and walked down to C2.

Jian-Pei Shen reached BC. He left BC after five days as he was not up for the climb.

Song never intended to summit. He was the official expedition leader to stay at BC.

Team left BC on 01/10.

Fixed rope: on descent 100m and two ladders in the icefall between C2 to C1.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C2 to top to C2 by members
From C4 to top to C4 by Sherpas and Dawa Steven