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Steiner-Troillet Expedition

Annapurna I · 1984 · 가을 (3) · Switzerland

원정 개요

No fixed camps above BC, no fixed ropes - before push to top had reached almost 6000m in recce of face on 30th Sept. Began push from BC 6th Oct. Steep ice (70-90 degrees). On 10/11 Oct night wind so strong had to dig snow cave at 2:00 am. 12th Oct strong wind and clear skies got to 7600m on shoulder of NW Ridge and back to 7400m. Saw bad weather coming from west and only 1 gas bottle left so continued down via extreme W Side on N Face to N Face team's C2 to BC of this autumn Japanese-Czech team. Arrived BC 5:00 am on 13th.

Main problem was wind. On 12th poor "visibility." We didn't know where we were plus 55-90 degrees steep face mostly ice, little rock made it technically difficult.

  • 내부 원정 ID1009
  • 원본 EXPIDANN184301
  • 대장Jean Troillet
  • 루트 (Route)W Face up; N Face down
  • 최고 도달고도7600m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 2명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Jean Fernand TroilletSwitzerlandLeader---
Pierre-Alain SteinerSwitzerlandClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1984 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1984 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198528801/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Attempt · 1984 · 웹사이트 (5) ·