원정 개요

BC 10/10 5100m on moraine
ABC 18/10 5400m on glacier
Biv1 23/10 6400m shortly underneath ridge
Biv2 24/10 6800m on W Ridge
Smt 25/10 by David Lama at 10 am.

Lama climbed from ABC to Bivouac 1 during the night. Lower part of route prone to ice and rock fall. On 23/10 he stayed in the tent the whole day, it had 80km/h wind. He had started from ABC at 1 am and reached Biv 1 at 6 am. Good climbing on mixed ground. Not much ice in lower wall, wall between 60-80°.

On 24/10 he started from Biv 1 at 6am. Reached Bivouac 2 some time in the afternoon. He gained the West Ridge at 6500m.

From Biv 2 he started at 6 am and reached the summit at 10 am.

Before the summit he left the West Ridge and climbed the North Face (90°, crux). Stayed on the summit only 5 minutes. On descent he rappelled down the same route, all the way to ABC. Arrived at ABC at 11 pm.

He carried 3 ropes, self belayed for 50m on 24/10 and for 100m on 25/10. All in all no perfect conditions, very cold on mountain (-25 to -30°C).

Hanslmayr and Haverstock reached ABC on 18/10. They never planned to go any higher on mountain.

On 30/10 Lama left BC for Namche Bazaar and on to climb Cholatse.

Climbing route:
West Face to West Ridge, last section on North Face just before summit.

Oxygen: Not taken, not used

Cameramen:
Martin Hanslmayr (ABC only)
Sean Haverstock (ABC only)