원정 개요

BC 08/09 5300m
C1 15/09 5700m
C2 16/09 6300m
C3 25/09 7200m
Smt 29/09 by Urken Sherpa at 6 pm
Smt 30/09 by Nelson, Morrison, Kalisz, Simpson, Phu Tashi Sherpa,
Ila Nuru Sherpa at 1:45 pm.

Rope-fixing Sherpas (Urken, Palden, Phura Sherpa) went from C2 towards the summit in one day. They fixed from 7300m to a little bit below the summit. They ran out of rope and Palden and Phura turned around about 100m below the top. Urken Sherpa was keen to summit and continued on his own. He descended to C3, where he arrived at 8 pm. Palden and Phura were back at C3 together with the members.

30/09 summit team left C3 at 2 am. Nelson and Morrison headed out without supplemental O2 as Nelson thought it was a good idea to summit without oxygen. Both of them were carrying their skis and they were in ski-boots. When they reached 8200m (base of couloir) the snow changed. Crust was less firm and they broke in about knee-deep. The Sherpas had deposited some oxygen at the base of the couloir and Morrison and Nelson decided to put on oxygen. They spent about 45 minutes on the summit and Nelson and Morrison started their ski descent.

They put their skis on on the summit and skied down to C2. Conditions in the couloir were varied. Breakable crust, ice. Couloir wide enough to ski. No rappel. Skiing the Lhotse Face was fine. They reached C2 at 6 pm.

On 01/10 Morrison and Nelson continued to ski down to C1. They started out without skins, but as they were pulling heavy duffle bags they put on their skins to be able to drag the duffle bags down. They dropped their loads at 5900m and then they skinned and skied down to the top of the icefall at 5600m.

Kalisz and Simpson also descended to C2 after the summit. Kalisz reached C2 at 8 pm, Simpson at 7:30 pm.

Team left BC on 04/10 by helicopter.

Fixed Rope:
Two icefall doctors (Dawa and Nima) fixed the icefall in 2 ½ days.
They only used one ladder. No rope fixed between C1 and C2.
Sherpas fixed from bergschrund (6600m) all the way to the summit.
Total ca. 3000m (with icefall).

Oxygen:
Taken and used from 8200m to top to C3 by Nelson
From 8200m to top to C2 by Morrison
From C3 to top to C2 by Kalisz and Simpson
From C2 to top to C2 by Sherpas.