World Expeditions Yubra Himal 2018
Langtang Yubra · 2018 · 가을 (3) · Denmark
원정 개요
BC 15/10 4200m
HC 20/10 5350m
Smt 21/10 by Jankowski, Finden, Jones, Townsden, De Lathouder and 5 Sherpas.
Yubra 6035m (unclimbed according to NMA list) on Nepa Maps as Langtang Yubra 6048m.
Group had some acclimatization walks near Kyanjin Gompa.
BC was located low at 4200m behind moraine of Lirung Glacier. Beyond BC access was very difficult. High camp (HC) located on the top edge of the Kimshung Icefall at 5350m. From BC to HC not through the icefall, but via a big ramp of scree and rocks west of icefall "Horrible way". Some risk of rockfall, lots of boulders. Some short pitches of rope fixed at the ramp. Beyond HC a glacial basin "like the Western Cwm" on Everest.
Team left HC for the summit at 3:30 am. Crampon point 30 minutes from HC, then long traverse on the left hand side of basin. Middle of basin heavily crevassed, but they walked around crevasse area.
Headwall starts at 5700m. Max. 80° headwall of snow and ice. They used ice screws and snow bars for belaying.
Team summited between 10:45 am-12:15 pm. Townsden was first of team members to summit at 11:30 am, last to summit was Lathouder at 12:15 pm. They had outstanding weather on the whole trip, also on summit day blue skies. Sherpas had fixed most of the route two days before. Fix ropes on entire headwall, about 400m.
The three radios of the group all failed at same time and Ledet at HC was worried about group. No contact for some hours. All back to HC safely at 5:20 pm.
Kosztelny had a knee injury previously which was why he couldn't attempt the summit. He left from Kyanjin to KTM on 15/10 by helicopter.
Megan Ward got sick at the bottom of headwall (probably AMS). Ledet took her back to HC, where she was given oxygen for the night.
Hawkins, Andersson and Riley decided to turn back with Ledet and Ward. They were spooked by the steep headwall.
Everyone descended to BC on 22/10. Rest day on 23/10 and back to Kyanjin Gompa on 24/10. Left BC on 24/10 for Kyanjin Gompa, then Langshisa Ri.
Oxygen: Taken and used for medical reasons by Megan Ward at HC.
Fixed rope: short sections between BC and HC (not more than 80m in total), 400m at headwall.
Hired:
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa, Phakding
Nawang Sherpa, Kharikhola
Mingma Sherpa, Kharikhola
Sona Sherpa, Kharikhola
Purba Sherpa, Kharikhola
Ed. Note: It is unclear from leader's photo whether the team climbed Langtang Yubra or a ridge between Langtang Yubra (6038m) and Yubra (6264m).
- 내부 원정 ID10083
- 원본 EXPIDLANY18301
- 대장Soren Ledet
- 루트 (Route)S Face
- 최고 도달고도6048m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 16명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Soren Kruse Ledet | Denmark/Australia | Leader | - | - | - |
| Lars Per Johan Andersson | Australia/Sweden | Climber | - | - | - |
| Karen Mariella De Lathouder | Netherlands | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Elizabeth Ann Finden | Australia | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Callum Douglas Hawkins | Australia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Edith Rita Jankowski | Australia | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Chris Jones | Australia | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Lajos Valter (Louis) Kosztelny | Australia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Malcolm Deryk Riley | Australia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Warren James Townsden | Australia | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Megan Louise Ward | Australia | Climber | - | 사용 | - |
| Ang Furba Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Mingma Chhiri Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Nawang Dorje Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Sona Chhiri Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |