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Summit team of Brian Jackson, Daniel Walker, Catherine Husted, Gwyn Griffiths, Mingma Dorje Sherpa and Mindu Sherpa set out from ABC on 25 Nov at 5 am, summited at 9:20 am, stayed 1 hour, then descended to ABC. Route was straight up the S Face on scree and shattered rack bands, onto East Ridge to summit.


Brian Jackson (by email) - 30 Nov 2018

Hello Billi,

Please see the basic ascent report below for the Himalayan Database. If you need any more information, please let me know...

12 hrs on a bus from Kathmandu to Lamabagar in the North-South Rolwaling Valley, one of the 7 hidden valleys of Nepal and home of the Yeti.

From Lamabagar, we trekked with 9 porters, 2 climbing Sherpas (Mingma Dorje Sherpa and Mindu Sherpa), 3 cook crew and 1 cook (Amrit Rai) from Lukla region + 5 local porters for 4 days to the last village of Lapche where the valley splits. At this point the 5 local porters left us to return to Lamabagar.

We then headed to the Tibetan border on the northeast valley from Lapche. We trekked up the very steep valley side to the hidden plateau between the two valleys to our base camp at 4836m (N 28° 8.6478' E 86° 11.4909'), reaching it on November 20th.

Rest, acclimatisation, jumar practice and puja ceremony at base camp.

Moved on to ABC at 5300m in the cul-de-sac of the Nepal/Tibet border of mountains (N 28° 9.9647' E 86° 11.0147') reaching it on November 23rd.

Korlang Pari Tippa lay before us with an East and West Summit on the 500m long ridge. We looked at the East summit as it was the highest, but could not see a route up the twin towers of broken shattered blocks as it is practically unclimbable. We therefore chose to climb the lower West Summit which still had falling rock and difficult shattered rock traverses.

We reached the Western summit of Korlang Pari Tippa North (5574m - N 28° 10.3081' E 86° 10.9266') on Sunday 25th November at 9:20 am using 350m of fixed line. Those who summitted were: Brian Jackson, Gwyn Griffiths, Daniel Walker, Catherine Husted, Mingma Dorje Sherpa and Mindu Sherpa.

Kind regards,
Brian Jackson