원정 개요

BC at west side of ridge running south from Fluted Peak
C1 at 5600m foot of Fluted peak's SW ridge (not the S Ridge)
C2 at 6500m foot of Glacier Dome
C3 at 7100m below and west of Glacier Dome summit at beginning of
Annapurna I's East Ridge
C4 at 7425m west of Roc Noir summit on the ridge
Biv1 on 23 Oct at col between East and Middle summits
Biv2 on North Face
Biv3 on 5000m on North Face.

Most difficult part was descent on unprepared route but to return E Ridge too long and fierce winds at continuously high altitude. Next most difficult parts were W Spur of Fluted Peak between C1 and C2 (ice nose of 70m) and between East and Middle summits (high altitude) and Middle to Main summits (rock band).

New route and 1st traverse: "very great feat for us without oxygen, without Sherpas, in alpine-style" says Loretan.

Do not know whether other members followed to any summits.

When Loretan and Joos left C4 on 23 Oct, no one remained in C4. 24 Oct Tschirky and Hobi moved up to C4 for a summit bid, but Hobi got sick and on 25 Oct they went to C2 while Buehler went up to C4 for a summit bid. 26 Oct Buehler too, was not well and descended to BC while Tschirky and Hobi also came down to BC and climb was finished.

Distances crow flies:
C4 to East Summit - 4 km
C4 to Main Summit - 6 km

None except altitude illness from insufficient acclimatization by all except Loretan and Joos, but not serious illness.


Loretan

Annapurna Swiss E Ridge started on 22 Oct. At 3:30 saw them from west from Rock Noir in good weather, no winds, no clouds. Had by chance to reach summit - was good weather also next 2 days.