원정 개요

BC in Mristri Khola near Thulobugin's "n"
C1 on big snow flute to West Ridge
C2 on West Ridge
C3 on West Ridge
C4 on West Ridge
High point on West Ridge.

4 bad weather days at C4 and had only 3 days food with them on 10th. So picked up camp and tried to move it next position at 24,500 ft on ridge but moved slowly because windy and snowing so returned to 22,500 ft. Then waited to see if weather would improve but Fischer went up for fixed rope and then both started down on 16th Oct. Came down N Face of W Ridge, down a spur, rather than ascent route. Spent 1 night in biv at c17,500 ft took much longer than expected which was why food running out. Most difficult technically was traversing a flute of mixed ice, rock and snow between C1 and C2. Again above C4 was narrow exposed climbing.