원정 개요

BC 02/10 4150m (Na village)
C1 06/10 5000m (12kms from BC, afoot of the ridge)
C2 16/10 5700m
C3 17/10 6400m (back to C3 after summit)
Smt 18/19 by all members at 1:30 pm.

Intended SE Ridge first, which was attempted in the past years by a French team (Patrick Wagnon/Dorian Labaeye) and last year by a "Grit and Rock" sponsored team. Found the access to the ridge in too dry and dangerous conditions this year, so changed their plans for the SW Ridge instead.

Ascent schedule:
October 15: BC to C1.
October 16: C1 to C2.
October 17: C2 to C3. Main difficulties begun on that day.
October 18: main difficulties ended on that day, then team exited by Bruce Normand
route. The two ropes reached the top in the middle of a stronger wind than
desired: it blew with a force of between 40 and 50 km/h, with gusts of up to 70
km/h. Bivouacked back to 6400m on that evening.
October 19: abseiling and back crossing a lot from 6400m bivy to 5000 meters C1.
October 20: back to BC.

Difficulties maintained from 6100 to 6600m, which is the second part of the route. Stretches there of AI5, V grade rock and also mixed terrain. The final part of the climb coincides with Bruce Normand's route 2005.

Name of the route: “Bizipenak”, which means "experiences" in Basque language.

Mikel Zabalza, who added with Drangnag Ri his 37th expedition outside Europe, says that Bizipenak "is one of the most beautiful routes that I have climbed in the Himalayas."

Team left BC on October 25.

Other peaks: a peak of 5960m with no name on the border with Tibet, east of Langdung Peak, for acclimatization.