Kobler & Partner Dhaulagiri Expedition 2018
Dhaulagiri I · 2018 · 가을 (3) · Austria
원정 개요
BC 03/09 4800m
C1 06/09 5700m
C1 13/09 5800m
C2 27/09 6550m
HPt 27/09 6550m by all members apart from Specht
HPt 19/09 6700m by Neuschmid (he checked the conditions after avalanche
killed Dawa Gyalzen)
HPt 28/09 6700m by Lal Bahadur, Sonam and Tashi Chhiring attempting to fix
the rope from C2 to C3.
Climb abandoned on 28/09 due to too much snow on the route for the Sherpas to fix and bad weather forecast. High winds were predicted until 08/10 at least.
First time team ascended to C1, it took them 12 hours as due to the heavily crevassed glacier route finding was difficult. They fixed the rope from the bottom of the Eiger to the glacier. For glacier crossing they roped up to get to C1. As they arrived at C1 just before sunset, they set up camp without noticing that they had placed it in between many crevasses - that's why they moved it when they went up for their second rotation.
Bierling arrived at BC on 13/09. She trekked in with SST group via Damphus and French Pass.
On 18/09, the group ascended again to C1, where they stayed the night. On 19/09 they were planning to reach C2 and stay the night there; however, when they reached around 6,000m they found out that Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa of SST had been killed in an avalanche, which the rope fixing Sherpas triggered at around 6700m (on the rib just above C2). They descended to C1, where they spent another night. They tagged C2 at 6550m on 20/09. Back to BC on 20/09.
Team left BC for a possible summit push on 26/09. It took them 11 hours to reach C1 as the route had been covered in snow. On 27/09, the team ascended to C2 where they stayed the night. The SST was also at C2 and on 28/09 four of their Sherpas and the three Kobler & Partner Sherpas started fixing the rope. However, due to the deep snow, they only reached 6700m and abandoned their attempt. The entire team descended to C1, where they stayed the night and were back at BC on 29/09.
Specht reached lower C1 on 06/09 during first acclimatisation rotation. He had an old shoulder injury and decided that he could not continue. He left BC on 12/09.
Team left BC on 02/10 (trekked to Marpha in 11 hours).
Oxygen: Taken, not used.
Sherpas:
Lal Bahadur Tamang, Ramche, Langtang, born in 2040
Tashi Chhiring Sherpa, Khumjung, August 1994, Makalu 2012
Sonam Sherpa, Takshindu, 2055/01/05
- 내부 원정 ID10051
- 원본 EXPIDDHA118301
- 대장Andreas Neuschmid
- 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6700m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)
참가자 9명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andreas Neuschmid | Austria | Leader | - | - | - |
| Barbara Susanne (Billi) Bierling | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Yuri Contreras Cedi | Mexico | Climber | - | - | - |
| Laura Gonzalez del Castillo Aranda | Mexico | Climber | - | - | - |
| Jonas Salzmann | Switzerland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Florian Wolfgang Specht | Germany | Climber | - | - | - |
| Sonam Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Tashi Chhiring (Tashi Tshering) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Lal Bahadur Tamang | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |