원정 개요

BC at junction of Barun and Chago Glaciers
C1 on Chago Glacier
C3 at Makalu Col
High point on NW Ridge.

From C3 in alpine-style on 10th Oct all 4 climbers to 7500m on NW Ridge, but strong wind and all go down to BC on 11th except Blasevich who stayed in C3. Blasevich to C2 on 12th Oct when his crampon caught in trousers at 7000m and he fell 300m, landed 20m from C2 and stayed there until 15th Oct (others did not know of accident). 14th Oct Italian expedition and 3 Spaniards went to C2 together and found Blasevich with knee injury and bad frostbite from accident and brought him down to C1 on 15th and to BC 16th. Blasevich carried down by porters and helicoptered out 23 Oct. Could have reached summit in 4-5 days climbing with no accidents.

Blasevich 3 days in C2 no food and drink following accident and bad frostbite in toes and fingers as well as knee injury and some facial cuts. In falling lost gloves. This only accident and was "stupid accident."


Shrestha, Tourism - 22 Oct 84

Abandoned after 7500m reached. Mario Blasevich which ascending from C2 to C3 in spite of bad weather fell on snow and seriously injured. Brought to BC and the 8 km below BC to NE place and helicopter urgently requested. Injured legs, hands and face. Helicopter maybe 23rd. Had made C3 at 7400m on 10 Oct. No information regarding C1 and C2.