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Ecuadorian Chamlang & Baruntse Expedition 2018

Chamlang · 2018 · 가을 (3) · Ecuador

원정 개요

BC 12/10 5100m
Biv1 29/10 6100m (in a little notch on West Ridge)
Biv2 30/10 6400m (on ledge on West Ridge)
HPt 30/10 6400m by Mena and Perez.

Climb abandoned on 31/10 due to weather forecast not good enough, unstable snow conditions.

Team initially wanted to climb a route in the western part of North Face. They climbed in lower part of North Face on 19/10-20/10. They just climbed a few pitches (approximately 100m in total). Conditions in the face were good, a lot of ice, but the weather forecast was not good enough for such a committing climb. Team decided to try West Ridge instead.

Mena and Perez attempted Chamlang via the West Ridge. They reached high point at 6400m on 30/10 at 11 am at a ledge where they pitched their second bivy.

Vallejo and Caceres were on permit but didn't want to attempt climb. It was windy and cloudy every day and they preferred to stay at BC.

West Ridge had dangerous cornices in lower part, overall no good conditions. Mena and Perez thought the ridge was too unstable and on 31/10 they descended to BC. Got to BC at 7 pm.

Team left BC on 01/11.

  • 내부 원정 ID10030
  • 원본 EXPIDCHAM18301
  • 대장Topo Mena
  • 루트 (Route)N Face (100m only)
  • 최고 도달고도6400m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Esteban Patricio (Topo) Mena YanezEcuadorLeader---
Rafael Antonio Caceres ValezEcuadorClimber---
Carla Patricia Perez RualesEcuadorClimber---
Edgar Ivan Vallejo RicaurteEcuadorClimber---

출처·참고문헌

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