원정 개요

BC northwest of Barun Pokhari near start of Barun Glacier
C1 just north of and below point 5860m
C2 on buttress of Czech route
Biv on normal route
Under Makalu La on Chago Glacier
At Makalu La.

Team only reached 6800m on SE Buttress Czech route. Strong winds forced retreat on 19 Sept. After weather improved two weeks later, team attempted normal route up to Makalu Col and N Ridge. Martini and De Stefani reached 7900m on 10 Oct when forced down by strong winds.

On buttress reached maximum 6800m hoping to put C3 at 7000m, but for 2 weeks could not go up because strong wind. Then decided to change to normal route and brought down all gear from 6800m and up by Martini, De Stefani, Valeruz and Stedile and on 8 Oct 4 Sherpas joined them at Col. On 9th Oct Stedile stayed on col while other 3 on up to 7800m on Kukuczka ridge. There Valeruz had stomach trouble and returned on skis to 6700m while others moved up to 7800m for own summit bid. On 10th Oct Martini and De Stefani tried for top, reached 7900m but wind stopped them and descended to 5400m via 6700m biv when others also left in descent. Then helped bring down Spanish expedition's man - arrived with him on 16th Oct and anyway lot of snowfall.


Shrestha, Tourism - 5 Oct 84

After reached C2 asked for route change to northwest side and this will be granted if Spaniards have no objection.