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BC at west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier
C1 then SE Ridge.

Went 500 ft above C2 but then needed more fixed rope for steep snow and since had no more rope, had to switch route to SE Ridge and put in a camp on this Ridge at 5950m. Highest point on this route (6250m) on 6th Oct by Burgess twins.

High point on S Ridge (6810m) reached by all 5 members in late Sept. Had not brought enough fixed rope because reports earlier expeditions did not indicate such technical problems - plus snow conditions bad with late monsoon.

On the 28th August 1984 Alan, Adrian and Mike set up base camp on the west bank of the Imja Glacier; beneath the eastern flank of the Island Peak at a height of approximately 17,000 ft. The route to C1 was begun on the 2nd Sept and lay up moraine; rubble covered glacier and slopes on the eastern side of the col a northern traverse over a series of snowy bumps; followed by a 70 ft. abseil onto the western flank, led to a glacial shelf and the site of C1 at 19,100 ft.

This camp was finally established on 10th Sept and work on the lower part of the South Spur began. Very deep snow was encountered and fixing rope up the crest of the spur was very slow work. Every day it snowed after 12 noon and the weather only improved after 20th Sept.

On the 17th Sept George and Paul arrived at base-camp and were soon helping in the preparation of the route. Over a number of days the fixed rope was pushed out to a height of 22,000 ft and a 600 ft, traverse left to a C2 beneath a small serac. On the 24th Sept Paul and Alan moved to C2 and fixed 600 feet more rope. At this stage they were in a position to see that we would still require 1500 ft more rope which we would have to buy from the nearby village of Pheriche.

On the 26th Sept Adrian and Mike went to C2 to continue the fixing of rope. At the high point it became obvious that all the hard work which was still necessary for the establishing of C3 would prove too much for the physical strength and morale of our small group. The team returned to base-camp.

Alan and Adrian Burgess then decided to change the climbing permit to that of the SE Ridge of Lhotse Shar, as it appeared easier than the former route.

Climbing quickly to 21,000 ft they encountered a serious serac barrier which they felt required some fixed rope for the descent. The two-some were not able to carry fixed rope for the descent and so the expedition was abandoned on 7th Sept.