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NTT Kyushu Alpine Club Himlung Expedition

Nemjung · 1988 · 겨울 (4) · Japan

원정 개요

Expeditions to Himlung prior to 1992 were probably climbing Nemjung.

BC at small stream moraine south of mountain
C1 at glacier southwest of summit
C2 below West Col on hanging glacier
C3 on snow plateau just east of West Ridge
C4 on West Ridge (Tibet side of serac)
High point at 2nd rock steep ridge.

"Very difficult mountain." From BC to C1 2 hrs walk; C1 to C2 8 hrs exposed to dangerous rockfall while climbing icefall. Fixed entire route (every day rock and ice avalanches). C2 to C3 icefall (again ice blocks falling). C3 to C4 on knife ridge with left leg in Tibet, right leg in Nepal. Very hard blue ice; again all fixed with ropes. Above C4 very sharp knife ridge on very hard blue ice (crampons slipped). To pass large hanging ice, Baba made hole through it. High point of 6650m was 50m high rock wall which had 3 rock steps, 1st one Baba passed but other two presented greater problems and so gave up this attempt in strong wind and need for rest for 3 days. Then 3 days heavy snowfall began 18th Dec which left 20cm deep snow at BC and no good weather coming.

Did not attempt S Face; many avalanches and "no route."

"It is miracle that all members alive." 1 member's rucksack has big hole from rock that fell.

  • 내부 원정 ID100
  • 원본 EXPIDNEMJ88401
  • 대장Yoshida Kazumi
  • 루트 (Route)W Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6650m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 10명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Yoshida KazumiJapanLeader---
Hiroyuki BabaJapanClimbing Leader---
Seiichi EgashiraJapanClimber---
Masahiro KasugaiJapanClimber---
Hideo KoikeJapanClimber---
Shoichi NakayamaJapanClimber---
Shuzo ShigemoriJapanClimber---
Masatomo TsuruJapanClimber---
Moti Lal GurungNepalH-A Worker---
Nawang Thile (Pemba Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1988 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1988 · 잡지 (3) · MM
· 1988 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
· 1988 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198921301/Asia-Nepal-Himlung-Himal-Attempt · 1988 · 웹사이트 (5) ·