원정 개요

Sharma, Tourism - 24 Nov 82

Reached 5 Oct 7350m, abandoned same day because bad weather. Did not pitch C3 formally. All OK.


Mitsui - 30 Aug 82

1971 Spr Shinshu University tried Annapurna II. Now again on Annapurna II but different route.

Caravan: Pokhara->Siklis->BC.
Route = South Face, same as 1981 autumn.
4 arrived 26 Aug, leave Sept 1 by road to Pokhara.
Temporary BC at 2600m and requires 800-1000m fixed rope.
Arrive BC and fully stock it.
BC -> C1 5 days = 20 Sept
C1 -> C2 3 days
C4 to summit very difficult, all steep rock climbing and unsound rock.
Must fix 800m fixed rope for descent.
No Sherpas above BC.
Summit 5-10 Oct
No oxygen at all; may find some left by last Japanese team.

1st Sept Kathmandu to Pokhara
2nd-6th Caravan march to temporary Base camp (2600m)
(40 porters)
7th-14 Route making to BC (4000m)
Japanese 4/sirdar/mailrunner/BC worker/
7 local porters (15 kg/35 Rs/day)
700 meters rope used
14 Sept established BC (4000m)
19 Leader Yamada went up to BC
20 established C1 (4800m)
22 established C2 (5200m)
26 established C3 (5800m)
1st Oct established C4 (6500m)
3nd established C5 (7050m)
4th carrying up climbing gears to 7250m Yoshida and Moroto
5th Yokohama heavy high altitude sickness. We stopped climbing up
6th all members went back to BC
7th all members including Yamada went back to temporary BC
8th back caravan march to Pokhara with 12 porters
11th reached to Kathmandu